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"These cognacs can hold their own against those of the great houses but have preserved a closeness to their origins, their goût de terroir." --Axel and Bibiana Behrendt's Guide to Cognac
Raymond Dudognon was born on January 26, 1927 in Lignieres-Sonneville, next to Ambleville and about 10 kilometres south of Segonzac. Raymond came from a long line of cognac distillers, dating back to his great grandfather, Paulin. In 1946, Raymond took over the reigns from his father and distilled the first cognacs of his own, performing the alambic alchemy in a small, wood-fueled still. At the time, most small cognac producers practiced polyculture, and amidst sunflowers and corn, Raymond had just over 5 hectares (13 acres) of vines. In 1948 Raymond married Pierrette, and over the next decade they had three daughters. During this time, Raymond also tore up some of his workhorse crops and replanted the land with vines, arriving at just under 35 hectares (86 acres). Commercially, most growers with their own stills, bouilleurs de cru, sold very little cognac in bottle during this period. Raymond sold his first in 1950, but most of his production, like that of his neighbors, was sold to the negociants—brokers who bought and blended entire casks from small producers and then marketed the product throughout the world under their own label. Because of his excellent terroir (with high chalk content which ultimately leads to tremendous length), Raymond became a favorite of several leading negociant. In the 1970’s he transformed his still to gas, convinced that it produced a more regular distillation. Yet when he taught his daughter Claudine the ins and outs of distillation, he insisted she learned with a wood fire, knowing that if she could overcome certain unforeseen problems that arise with that method, she would perfect distillation by other means. In 1990, Raymond entered his Reserve des Ancetres(made from his first two vintages, the 1946 and 1947, that had been blended together decades before) in The International Spirits Tasting Show. Raymond took home the Medaille d’Or or Gold Medal, echoing a gold his great grandfather Paulin had won at the competition in 1898. Because of this, he decided to attach the award to each bottle and it has since become known as the Medaille d’Or. At the end of the nineties, Raymond retired and dividing his property equally amongst his three daughters. He chose Claudine as his successor, and to her passed the knowledge he had accumulated during more than half a century. Shortly thereafter, he was diagnosed with cancer. Raymond bravely battled the disease for several years and was finally confined to a bed. In October 2002, he succumbed to his struggle. Raymond was well loved within the cognac community, and was a member of many of the local committees and tasting panels. He loved experimenting with rarely-used grape varietals like Montils and Grosse Blanche, and experimenting with distillation methods. The complete antithesis to the suit and tie image of cognac, Raymond remained humble in both his appearance and opinions, letting his cognac do the talking.
Following Raymond's death, Claudine Dudognon took over along with her husband Gerald Buraud. The Dudognon-Burauds are staunch traditionalists who distill only the Ugni Blanc grown on their properties. Their two alambics distill roughly 450-200 hl a.p. per year (100 barrels). The eau de vie from their fine parcels is aged in their small, rustic chai. These cognacs originate from soils that are not treated with chemicals or nitrates. The decisions during distillation are done with the glass in hand rather than with scientific instruments. The wood for their barrels is air-dried for five years next to the chai.
While many cognacs are laden with permitted additives (sugar, boisé;, caramel), the only additive used in Dudognon cognacs is water. Because of this, their color is fairly light, their sweetness comes from only naturally concentrated fruit, while their length, like the finest spirits from the Grand Champagne, is counted in minutes. Today, Claudine and Gerald continue to elevate Dudognon's cognacs to new heights, frequently winning prizes and gathering tremendous international press.
Réserve (15 Years Old) Pleasing aromatics include notes of apple, toffee and spice. Soft texture, with additional notes of vanilla on the palate. Delightful entry-level Grande Champagne! Vieille Reserve (25 years old) Fine rancio note on the nose, along with hints of honey, coffee, and spice. Soft and sweet in the mouth, and with excellent length. Superb (90-95 points), Highly Recommended --The Wine Enthusiast, August 2001 Heritage (40 years old) Lovely rancio on the nose with a mashed almond nuance. Viscous and honeyed, with additional notes of creme brulée. Concentrated sweetness with a hint of toasted coconut on the extremely long finish. Awesome! "Its deep color is an invitiation to its pleasure. Everything is sensuous about this magnificent cognac which is exceptionally balanced and complex: chocolatey nose, rich mouthfeel, and creamy and persistent length. *****" --La Revue du Vin de France, May 2001
Want to buy? Copyright © 2008 Charles Neal Selections |
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The Dudognon family have grown grapes in the small town of Lignières-Sonneville since 1776. This region is the heart of the famed Grande Champagne of Cognac, whose soil is largely composed of Campanian chalk. Spirits from this premier cru are especially renowned for their tremendous length. After the Second World War, Raymond Dudognon raised the domaine's reputation to new levels with his close attention to detail and minimal intervention of his spirits.
