About Cognac

From the Cognac Region of France

Cognac is France's best known brandy, originating in the Charente region of Southwestern France, about 100 miles northeast of Bordeaux. Cognac is divided into six regions: the central region is called the Grande Champagne and has a chalk-based soil, as does much of the next zone, the Petite Champagne. As one moves outwards, the chalk changes to limestone and then sand, through the Fins Bois, Borderies, Bons Bois and Bois Communes. These soils yield spirits with different textures and aging capability -- important factors when attempting to duplicate a blend a million bottles a year for decades.

98% of the Cognac vineyards are planted with Ugni Blanc, although miniscule parcels of Folle Blanche and Colombard exist. The wine from these grapes reaches a very low alcohol level (7-9 degrees) while retaining high acidity. Wines of this sort are ideal for distillation, and are distilled several months after the harvest.

The typical pot still used for double-distillation is often referred to as the alambic Charentaise because of its widespread use in cognac. The still is comprised of several onion-shaped copper domes and holding tanks. The wine enters a central dome and gradually flows into a heating tank, under which a gas flame burns steadily. As the wine reaches the boiling point, a vapor begins to rise (just as it does with boiling water). This steam collects against the inside of the dome, then searches for a place to escape. Its only exiting point is a hole that leads to the curved pipe known as the swan's neck. Gravity then takes the vapor downward through a pipe coiled around a holding tank filled with cold water. From there it reconverts into liquid and exits the still with an alcohol level of around 28° or 56 proof.

A distiller carefully surveys the entire process. The first spirits to come out of the still, known as the têtes or heads, normally contain such high levels of impurities that they are discarded. The majority of the distillation, called the brouillis, is kept. The wine that takes the longest time to distill and remains at the end, called the queues or tails, is normally too weak and stripped of flavor to produce anything worth keeping. Consequently, like the heads, the tails are often discarded.

The useable material (brouillis) from the first distillation is collected and housed in holding tanks. Afterwards, it is reinstated in the still and processed again. This time there is less waste material, and 99% is kept. The spirit exits at a higher strength the second time, normally somewhere between 67° and 72°. From there it goes straight into oak barrels.

The Aging Process

Cognac uses 350-liter barrels made of either Limousin or Tronçais oaks. As the eau de vie exits the still at around 144 proof, alcoholic reduction begins at a very early age. This reduction is either done with distilled water or petites eaux (a 60 proof blend of distilled water and cognac). These additions are made once or twice a year. Most cognac finally reaches the market between 80 and 86 proof.

The Blending Concept

Whereas it is common to have single-vineyard, single-vintage armagnacs, most cognacs are a blend of various vineyard plots and vintages. The reasons for this are mostly to fulfill the enormous worldwide demand for cognac.

Most large houses have hundreds of sources whose spirits they blend to achieve a constant taste. The final coup or blend is made by the master blender who, as in armagnac, has four groups of permitted additives at his disposal.

Water

Water is the most natural additive, normally used to cut excessive alcohol or heat (essential for double-distilled products) but also to sell and lower duties and taxes.

Boisé

Boisé is a second permitted additive, created by boiling wood chips in water, then removing the chips and slowly reducing the remaining liquid. What one is left with is a dark brown liquid that is replete with wood flavor and tannin. The reasons for using boisé are simple. It basically gives the impression of oak aging to a final spirit. An aged-boisé is also available to the enologist. It is less bitter than straight boisé;, and offers secondary wood aromas like vanilla and grilled nuts, giving an impression of age to a spirit.

Sugar Syrup

Sugar syrup is the third adjustment tool which is used to add sweetness. It is viscous, and can either be dark or light. Legally, 2% of a cognac's content can be sugar syrup.

Caramel

A final shortcut is caramel. Caramel is a liquid made from burned sugar. It is dark in color and slightly bitter in taste. It is not used to sweeten cognac, but to adjust its color and establish consistency or give the spirit the impression of being older and therefore smoother.

Textural and Taste Differences Between Cognac and Armagnac

Armagnacs and cognacs fewer than 10 years old comprise more than 90% of the world market. Yet armagnacs and cognacs fewer than 10 years old are not the examples by which one should judge either of these spirits. Their adulteration is widespread and their usual reduction tremendously cuts their concentration. With the skill of those in the blending laboratory, it is often difficult to determine what flavors are pure and which simulate flavors that would normally arise after a much longer aging period (as is the case in the wine world with wood chips, chaptilization, addition of supplementary varietals, etc.). Many producers and négociants, realizing that they are not serious products, will not even taste VSOP or XO-level releases to journalists or connoisseurs.

The components of both armagnac and cognac pass through stages during their lives: fresh fruit (plum, apricot, pear, quince) and floral notes evolve to preserved fruit (imagine the aforementioned as jam) then dried fruit. Hard toffee changes to soft toffee, then cream or even butter. Slow oxidation in cask causes almond and walnut notes (rancio) to surface. The barrel, which once gave pepper, clove and cinnamon notes, finally overwhelms the remaining fruit with tannin.

Generally speaking, at the fifteen-year mark, a single-distilled armagnac has a fatter texture than a double-distilled cognac (comparable to the difference between vodka in the freezer and vodka at room temperature). Because of its grapes and because the outgoing vapors are forced into contact with the incoming wine during its sole distillation, armagnac also tends to show more primary fruit than cognac. As traditional armagnac is not reduced, its heightened alcohol helps push its concentrated aromas from the glass. The most typical fruit includes vine flowers, orange, plum, quince and apricot. The reaction with armagnac and the sugars of the oak often yields notes of vanilla, caramel, toffee, buttered toffee, maple syrup and and exotic note of coconut milk. With aging, armagnacs often develop intriguing earth and smoke aromas. Armagnacs generally hit their peak between 20 and 30 years of age.

Cognac's fruit tends to be lighter (pear, orange) and more floral. Because Ugni blanc is the chief cognac grape and because cognac is diluted to 80 proof, its aromas are not always as forthcoming as those of armagnac. Cognacs are the better long distance runner, however, perhaps due to their higher alcohol, they often peak around the 30- to 40- year mark and develop extremely subtle rancio notes.

After 35 years of age, most armagnacs and cognacs that stay in barrel begin to decline. Not only does the alcohol begin to drop below the legal 40%, but the wood notes begin to dominate the fruit.

While armagnac perhaps peaks by its 30th birthday, a well-raised cognac (perhaps because of its higher initieal alcohol degree) can continue to evolve until its 50th birthday.

E-mail us for info at contact@charlesnealselections.com

Shipping laws vary from state to state. To best serve you, please send us your location and we will send you information on the nearest retail source.

Visit us online at www.charlesnealselections.com