Wines by Region / Champagne / Cramant / Champagne Lancelot-Pienne
Champagne Lancelot-Pienne — Côte des Blancs
Cramant, Marne I met Gilles Lancelot about a dozen years ago, shortly after he had purchased the old Mumm property in the center of Cramant. It was January, I think, and he had not yet hooked up the heat in the large tasting room that overlooks the vineyards of Cramant and Avize. As we spoke, we could see each other’s breath from across the table. Gilles heated up some leftovers in the back room after we had tasted, which at least provided some warmth. But it didn’t bother me that I was sitting indoors with my winter coat on—the champagne was stellar and that gave me all the warmth I needed.
Gilles Lancelot
Gilles trained at the champagne school in Avize and farms 8.3 hectares of grapes, half of which are in Cramant, Chouilly and Avize with the other half spread over Boursault, Mancy and Monthelon in the Vallée de la Marne. Their vines now average 40 years of age. The vineyards are worked using lutte raisonée, so that spraying and chemical treatments are reduced to the absolute minimum. In the winery, the grapes are given a very slow pressing, then fermented in stainless steel- and enamel-lined concrete tanks, where they remain on their fine lees for 6 to 8 months. Malolactic fermentation is done on all wines. All of the champagnes are aged for at least 30 months en tirage. Dosage is between 7 and 8 grams per liter depending upon the year.
80,000 bottles are produced annually and no grapes are sold to négociants. About 50% of their production is exported. Gilles is a grower who makes a full range of champagnes, but we focus on his Blanc de Blancs cuvées because we feel they represent some of the best values in Champagne. Fresh and elegant, lightly dosed and superbly creamy, these are perfect aperitif champagnes.
Lancelot-Pienne Blanc de Blancs NV Made mainly from grand cru plots on the Côte des Blancs but sometimes supplemented with Chardonnay from their vineyards near Cuis. It is made with 80% of the base year (currently 2012), the rest from a type of reserve solera that incorporates 17 different vintages. It is strikingly pure and crystalline, adorned with a beautiful lace of fine bubbles. The nose is fine and floral, with predominant notes of white fruits and chalk. The palate reveals creamy yet crisp flavors of pear, apple and fresh almonds with a beautifully fresh finish. This is ideal to accompany appetizers or seafood.
“Pale yellow. Baked bread, poached pear and honey on the deeply scented nose. Fleshy and seamless in texture, offering pliant orchard fruit and melon flavors and hints of toasty lees and fresh fig. Very fruity blanc de blancs with strong finishing punch and lingering honey and orchard fruit qualities. This suave wine has the heft to work with rich foods. 91 points.”—Josh Reynolds, International Wine Cellar (L00.2)
Lancelot-Pienne “Cuvée de la Table Ronde” Grand Cru Brut NV Made with grapes from Cramant, Avize and Chouilly, using 80% from the base with 20% solera of reserve wines that range up to 19 years old. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. The intensity and concentration of aromas are balanced by the silky elegance of the mousse and its very fine structure. This champagne offers a spectrum of aromas including quince, brioche, peach, white flower and a hint of raspberry that dance upon layers of chalky minerality.
“Fantastic expression of pure Chardonnay from Cramant, exploding with chalky minerality. Our greatest discovery in 2009 in Champagne. Wines of magnificent breed and purity.”--Bettane & Desseauve