I met Gilles Lancelot about a dozen years ago shortly after he had purchased the old Mumm property in the center of Cramant. It was January, I think, and he had not yet hooked up the heat in the large tasting room that overlooks the vineyards of Cramant and Avize. As we spoke, we could see each other’s breath from across the table. Gilles heated up some leftovers in the back room after we had tasted, which at least provided some warmth to the room. It didn’t bother me that I was sitting indoors with my winter coat on: the champagne was stellar and that gave me all the warmth I needed.
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Charles Neal Selections © 2017