Alsace Region:
Domaine Valentin Zusslin
Domaine Valentin Zusslin is a 13 hectare property located in the quaint Alsacian town of Orchwihr. About 20 kilometres south of Colmar, Orschwihr is famous for both its chateau and its vineyards.
The history of the domaine dates back to 1691 when it was created by Cisele Jodocus. In 1997, Jean-Marie Zusslin, in a move many locals considered crazy, decided to convert his vineyards with boidynamics. He became part of Nicholas Joly's Renaissance d'Appellations and transformed his property. Out were damaging chemicals, in were medicinal plants, animal manures and biodynamic compost.
Today, Jean-Marie, still a young man in his fifties, directs the domaine while his children, the 13th generation, are the public face. Marie handles the commercial side of things, while Jean-Paul works the vineyards and makes the wine.
The vineyards of Orschwihr lie on a number of different soils. The grand cru, Pfingstberg, is a slope that dominates the little valley where the village lies. The ancient reputation of Pfingstberg dates back to 1299, the date of its donation by the knight Richard d'Epfig to the Unterlinden convent. Planted with Gewurtztraminer, Riesling, Tokay Pinot Gris and Muscat, this vineyard yields wines with great typicity and very floral aromas. The wines are fairly showy after only two years and also age well.
The 28.15 hectares (70 acres) Pfingsberg faces southeast, at altitudes between 250 and 350 metres. The upper part is located on a chalky sandstone and mica-sandstone substrata. A clay-sandstone texture appears on the lower part. In places, the very steep slopes have necessitated the construction of terraces reinforced by sandstone walls.
In addition to Pfingstberg, Orschwihr also has two other excellent vineyard sites, Clos Liebenberg, with its clay and sandstone soils, and Bollenberg, with its clay and limestone soils. In all, the Valentin Zusslin' holdings total 13 hectares (32 acres) from which they produce approximately 100,000 bottles (8,300 cases) a year.
The vineyards are plowed during the year to loosen the soil and certain plants are allowed to grow between the rows to promote aeration. The grapes are harvested by hand in small cases at optimum maturity, often in two or three passes through the vineyards. No synthetic or chemical treatments are used during the winemaking process; no yeasts are added (only natural yeasts from the grape skins are used), there is no chaptilization (no added sugar) and no acidification takes place either.
The fermentations are long, sometimes lasting over a year, and take place in stainless steel tanks, or in foudre for the Riesling and Pinot Gris. The wines are bottled after a very light filtration and possess a marvelous balance of sugar and acidity, a rich texture that finishes dry, and wonderful purity of flavors.
Pinot Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes from vines average 35 years old: Kinky nose that hints at honey and peach skin. Great richness on the palate is kept in check by balancing acids.
Muscat Cuvée Marie (Muscat Ottonel rather than Muscat d'Alsace, from 30 year old vines): Super aromatic with grapey and floral tones. Nice grapefruit note picks up on the finish. Delicious!
Riesling Bollenberg: Really delicious Alsacian Riesling, with its aromas of high-pitched peach and petrol, rather ripped texture, and lovely long, pretty, citrusy finish.
Riesling Clos Liebenberg: Peach, orange and petrol notes on the nose, with a bright acids perfectly balancing the substantial fruit on the palate. Finishes dry.
Riesling Grand Cru Pfingstberg: Highly aromatic nose of lime cream, honey and petrol. Wonderfully mineraled palate, with a zippy, long, pure and dry finish. Showing well now and with excellent potential.
Gewurtraminer Bollenberg: Spot on Gewurtz aromas of lychee and rose: Good acids balance the substantial fruit on the palate. Great aperitif.
Pinot Noir Cuvée Harmonie: This is the third cuvée harmonie that I import (see also Trosset Arbin and Pellehaut Cotes de Gascogne): Deep color, plenty of forward pinot flavor framed by classy vanillin notes, and a long finish.
|
