Domaine Patrick Coulbois Pouilly-Fumé
Loire Valley Region
The vineyards in the Pouilly Fumé appellation were originally established by Benedictine monks. Located about 15 kilometres south of Sancerre and on the opposite bank of the Loire River, the majority of the vineyards are planted on two types of soil common to Sancerre as well, Portlandian cap rock (with limestone and chalk) and Kimmeridgian rock (a mixture of clay and limestone). But a lower strata is argilo-silex, and it is precisely this flint influence that helps give the Sauvignon Blanc in Pouilly Fumé its own unique personality. These silex stones, when struck together, give the aroma of pierre a fusil (gun flint) or the smoky smell of caps.
The family of Patrick Coulbois has cultivated vines in the region since the 17th century. His father Gerald owned vines located to the west of Saint Andelain. However, in 1974 Patrick set off on his own, using grapes from parcels running along the Southwestern slopes of Saint Andelain along with parcels from his wife's family and several rented vineyards. In 1979, Coulbois constructed a cellar; in 1989 he enlarged it and purchased a pneumatic press and temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks.
Patrick Coulbois at Domaine Patrick Coulbois in Saint Andelain
Coulbois owns a total of 8.7 hectares (21.5 acres) of vineyards and practices lutte raisonée; he aerates the soil, uses natural composts and no insecticides. Plantings closest to the house date to 1955, and this fruit goes into the Les Cocques cuvée. The limestone plantings are more recent (1977 and 1982) and are used for a cuvée sent primarily to England named Les Cornets. A third cuvée, La Charnoie, is grown on Kimmeridge clay and made with vines planted just after World War II.
Vinification is carried out parcel by parcel in order to highlight the special features of each vineyard plot. The pressing is gentle as not to extract unwanted phenolics. The fermentation takes place at cool temperatures in order to preserve the grape's natural aromatics. The storage vats are fairly squat, allowing a larger surface area for a healthy exchange between the wine and its lees during the wine's upbringing.
Coulbois also makes a little Pouilly sur Loire, which is made with Chasselas grown on the more sandy soils near the river. It is a light, crisp wine which is quite refreshing in the summer.
Les Cocques (from 50 year old vines, this cuvee was selected from two tanks, which were fermented for 3.5 and 5 weeks respectively): Aromas include green apple, grapefruit, blood oranges, white flowers and minerals. Bone dry, medium-bodied and crisp, the wine is a wonderful partner for seafood, cold salads and goat cheese.
La Charnoie (made from 59 year-old vines planted Northeast of St. Andelain): Intense, complex aromas of grapefruit, flowers and minerals. Plenty of penetration on the palate. Long, lingering finish.
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