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Mondeuse is the red grape of Savoie, as Pinot Noir is to Burgundy or Syrah is to the Northern Rhône. Although many locals claim that Mondeuse is related to Syrah, it appears to be a relative of Gros Syrah, rather than Syrah. Alternatively, other locals claim that Mondeuse Noir is a hybrid of Mondeuse Blanche, a white grape that disappeared decades ago. In the Northern Italian hills of Fruili, it is known as Refosco. Very little Mondeuse is seen outside the Savoie; however, a little is grown in the United States, most notably at Au Bon Climat Winery in California.
Mondeuse is a varietal that hasn't yet become a household word. One shouldn't hold their breath that one day the Mondeuse section will be located next to the Cabernet section at your local wine merchant! Chances are, however, that it will continue to reside in the Other France section-a graveyard for the mainstream but treasure trove for the wine scout.
Mondeuse is not a high alcohol grape. Even in hot years like 2003, Mondeuse across Savoie still had difficulty reaching 12% natural alcohol. The juice from Mondeuse is a wonderful beet-colored red. The nose often gives aromas of red fruits and spice, but the mouthfeel often lacks some weight and comes across as being flat and tannic. The challenge is to grow Mondeuse in areas that get the most sun possible, work the vines to help minimize any green and vegetal aromas, and produce a fleshy, fruit-laden texture whose flavors hypothetically blend cru Beaujolais Gamay with Northern Rhône Syrah and just a bit of Cabernet Franc from the Loire. These red wines make an excellent accompaniment to pork roast, veal stew, or sausages with polenta. Of course, the local tomme cheese (or comté for that matter) also pair marvelously with the grape's deep, intense fruit.
The Trosset brothers, Louis and Joseph, are in their late fifties and took over for their father Charles following his death in 2000. With at least four generations of winegrowers before them, the brothers have some wonderfully-positioned vineyard plots on the steep slopes above the domaine. The siblings have clearly divided roles at the domaine: Joseph works the vines; in fact, when asked about the winemaking, he said he would have to speak to his brother.
The domaine is located in Arbin, a couple of towns along the curve of the mountain slope from Chignin. Arbin is one of the 17 crus that exist in the Savoie, although all the wines go under the appellation Vin de Savoie. Located a bit further along the slopes than Chignin and just before Cruet, Arbin specializes in Mondeuse and it is the only grape the Trossets have planted. The grapes are grown on severe slopes (with 35-40% grades) which make it imperative that all work is done by hand. Their four hectares (10 acres) of vineyards are spread over ten parcels, all of which face south. The soil is composed of clay and dark limestone, along with some red, iron rich soil. The subsoil contains many large stones which facilitate drainage.
The vines are pruned with the gobelet method (often seen in the southern Rhône or Beaujolais), and the average age of the vines are 25 years. The older vines are planted with about 45 inches between them. The younger vines have about 60 inches between them, which gives a larger leaf canopy and more aeration. There are no chemical fertilizers used in the vineyard (only organic compost), and the soil is worked two or three times a year which forces the vines to search the subsoil for their essential nutrients. In certain years, a green harvest is performed to further concentrate the grapes.
The harvest is entirely by hand, in small plastic bins to avoid any oxidation before the grapes arrive at the winery (above) at the bottom of the hill. Usually the plots are harvested separately, and each goes into a particular tank. Fermentation normally lasts eight to ten days, with a daily pump over. The wine is raised in stainless steel and enamel lined tanks-no wood is used on the wines. A number of different cuvees are assembled, and released under the names Tradition, Prestige des Arpents, Confidentiel, Harmonie and Privilege.
Cuvée Prestige des Arpentes: Deep ruby color. Blackberry with a bit of red fruit peaking through, along with a touch of pepper. A hint of herbs (mountain herbs, as in Chartreuse) come through on the rich, full-bodied palate. The lightly tannic finish is also long. Want to buy? Copyright © 2008 Charles Neal Selections |
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His job, he stated, was to make sure the best grapes make it down the hill and into the tanks. At the end of the day, he receives some guests and makes some sales. His brother Louis, in addition to work at the university, handles the winemaking and occupies himself with sales. 
