Southern Rhône Region:
Domaine Coteaux des Travers Rasteau
Rasteau is a small village (population 696) located in the Southern Rhone a short three miles east of Cairanne and 10 miles north of Gigondas. Until about ten years ago, Rasteau was most known for Vin Doux Naturel (VDN) or muted-sweet wines. In fact, Rasteau gained appellation status in 1967 because of these sweet wines. These were made from overripe Grenache, whose fermentation was stopped with the addition of alcohol, yielding a rich red wine like port. As Beaumes de Venise was known for its sweet white Muscat, Rasteau was known for its sweet red Grenache.
These sweet reds are still made in Rasteau but are no longer very popular, even locally. Understandably, as the popularity in sweet wines has dwindled, the trend has been to make dry wines that can be sold the same year and be consumed in larger quantities has increased.
The soils of Rasteau
The total area cultivated with grapes in Rasteau is 658 hectares (1,625 acres), making it about half the size of Gigondas and about the same size as Lirac. According to the appellation laws, Grenache must be used in at least 50% of the blend. Syrah and/or Mourvedre must total at least 20%, while other grape varieties may be used to a maximum of 20%. The soil has a high percentage of clay and marl, with some red soil mixed with sandstone.
Charavin is a common name in Rasteau, and there are four producers who carry this name. Domaine des Coteaux de Travers (literally domaine of the slopes on the side of the rising sun) is owned by Robert Charavin. Its history dates back to Robert's grandfather Elie, who began cultivating the vines in 1931. Following the Second World War, the domaine expanded greatly. Robert Sr. took over in 1955 and, in 1976, sold his first wines in bottle. Robert Jr. took over the domaine in 1985.
Robert Charavin
For the past few years, Charavin has worked rigorously in the vineyard and no longer uses any sort of chemical weed control for the plant health. Some plowing is done between rows. Leaf plucking and a small green harvest to limit yields and maximize concentration have become the norm. Harvest is normally in early September and is done entirely by hand, with any bad grapes being left on the ground.
Char à Vin Cotes du Rhone (50% Grenache, 30% Carignan, 10% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah): A char is a military tank in French, and this release is a play on that word, as it is made in tank (enamel-lined vats). Clay and limestone soil with a slightly sloped, full Southern exposure. Vines range between ten and twenty years old. Grapes are destemmed, then aged in tank for 3 weeks. Notes of cherry, wild plum and raspberries on the palate. Rich and round mouthfeel, with more cherry and a touch of white pepper. Enjoyable bistro wine.
Rasteau Réserve (60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre): The soil is a mix of clay and a large quantity of limestone, with the vines exposed to the South and Southwest. Made from old vines (40-60 years old) with a low yield of 35 hl/ha (just over two tons an acre). The harvest is destemmed and the fermentation lasts 24-28 days with punch-downs of the must (pigeage). This allows for wines that are robust and very aromatic. The wines age well for 4-6 years. The aromas of this wine jump from the glass, with plenty of blackcurrant and wild plum notes. A touch of fig and blackberry comes through on the palate. Full-bodied on the palate, with round, well-integrated tannin.
Rasteau Cuvée Prestige (40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre):From vineyards with a high percentage of limestone, facing south and southwest. Made from vines averaging 60 years old with a yield of just over two tons an acre. The grapes are destemmed and fermented in tank for 15 days, then aged in barrel for a year. Plenty of rich fruit on the nose, strawberry, blackberry, kirsch along with licorice and spice. A hearty wine for hearty foods.
Rasteau Ambre Vin Doux Naturel: Made with 100% Grenache grown on clay and limestone soils on South and southwestern facing slopes. The juice is obtained through a light pressing and bleeding of the grapes. After a settling of the juice for 24 hours, the fermentation starts. When 90 g per liter of sugar remains, wine alcohol at 96% is added to stop the fermentation in a process known as mutage. It then goes into barrel for one year before being bottled. These wines are longer lived than the table wines, and can age gracefully for ten years following the vintage.
Cairanne:Charavin also several a parcels of vines in neighboring Cairanne that total 4 hectares (10 acres). The plots themselves are spread out, so soils vary (sand, clay/limestone, and red and rocky). The vines on the parcels are old, averaging 40-60 years, with 35 hl/ha yields (just over two tons an acre). The grapes are destemmed. Fermentation is in tank for 15 days, with daily punch downs which allow the wine to become structured and aromatic. The wine ages gracefully for four to six years. It shows a powerful nose of wild myrtle, cherry and plum. Full-bodied yet with some finesse, this wine is great with any sort of roasted meat.
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