Southern Rhône Region:
Domaine Saint-Amant Beaumes de Venise
Domaine Saint-Amant is a small domaine (10 hectares or 24.7 acres) whose fame and reputation has grown immensely in the past ten years. The domaine is located in the town of Suzette, a tiny commune at the top of a twisting road above the dentelles de Montmirail (the jagged mountain ridge above Gigondas). The property was bought by Parisian businessman Jacques Wallut nearly 30 years ago, and when he left the high tech world, he began focusing on his new passion.
Domaine Saint-Amant stands at the summit of a hill some 500 metres above sea level, unusually high for the Southern Rhône. (In fact, Côte Rôtie in the Northern Rhône only reaches 350 metres altitude.) Because of this height, the temperature is cooler and the grapes retain better acidity. Consequently, the Wallut family concentrates on Northern Rhône varietals like Syrah and Viognier. Viognier, whose ground zero is in and around the Northern Rhône village Condrieu, has been planted more and more in the Southern Rhône over the past 15 years. Its addition to traditional Southern Rhône white wines made with Grenache blanc, Clairette and Bourboulenc help give it some fat and aromatic lift. The problem is that Viognier suffers in the heat, which makes its success difficult in the scorching flat southern terroir. At Saint-Amant's altitude, the distinguished aromas of the grape are more precise thanks to its heightened acidity.
Saint-Amant Viognier Vines
Interspersed with lavender fields and wood patches, the appellation for most of the domaine's wines is Beaumes de Venise. One normally thinks of Muscat when thinking of this appellation; however, not one Muscat vine is planted on the property, which also sets St. Amant apart from other Southern Rhône domaines.
The modern winery was built in 1995. It is totally temperature controlled and, because it is built into the hillside, allows the vignerons to work by gravity without having to pump the juice.
Tasting room at Saint-Amant
The La Tabardonne cuvée carries the Beaumes de Venise appellation and comes from 3 ha of vineyard (7.4 acres) comprised of 95% Viognier and 5% Roussanne, whose vines average between 10-and 15-years-old. The soil is clay and limestone. Harvest is by hand, and happens in two stages. The first pass through the vineyards happen during the second week of September. The small team (7 to 10 people) collects the ripe bunches. Then a second pass happens during the third week when the remaining clusters have become ripe. Overall yields average just two tons to the acre. The grapes are crushed and left to clarify and after some skin contact. Fermentation starts in stainless steel, and is then transferred to 228-liter oak barrels (1/3 new, 1/3 that have seen one wine, 1/3 that have seen two). Full fermentation takes about 17 days. The wine stays in oak barrel for 12 months, with lees stirring once a week. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation so that it does not lose its acidity. A normal vintage sees a production of 8,000 bottles.
La Borry is another cuvée made with 100% Viognier but because it comes from vineyards above 500 metres altitude, it carries the Côtes du Rhône appellation rather than Beaumes de Venise. The vineyards actually reach up to 600 metres altitude and are exposed to the south and east. The vineyards occasionally see a green harvest and leaf plucking. Like with La Taberdonne, the vintage normally takes place in two parts: first at the end of September, then at the beginning of October. Yield is just over two tons to the acre. It goes into the press by gravity, then into stainless steel tanks. During the first 24 hours, the major sediment descends. The juice then begins its fermentation, 75% in tank and 25% in barrel. The fermentation lasts 15 days, arriving at a 13% alcohol level with no residual sugar. The wine does not go through malolactic fermentation. The wine then spends seven months in tank before bottling. Production averages 10,000 bottles
Les Clapas comes from a 3.5 hectare vineyard (8.6 acres). The vineyards range from 450 to 600 metres altitude. Even though planted within the Beaumes de Venise appellation, the wine carries the Côtes du Rhône appellation because Beaumes de Venise wines must have at least 50% Grenache. The wine is made from only 40% Grenache (from 20-35 year vines) along with 60% Syrah (from vineyards 10 to 20 years old) from South and East-facing vineyards. Harvest is late, normally the first two weeks of October. Pickers are instructed to only take mature and healthy grapes, and yields are only about 2.5 tons to the acre. Fermentation takes place in both tank (2/3) and oak (1/3). Punch-downs and pump-overs are both used to maximize color, fruit and freshness. Afterwards, half is aged in wooden casks while half remains in stainless steel for ten months. The wine is bottled after 10 months élevage with an extremely light filtration. Production averages about 5,000 bottles.
La Borry: Fine apricot and orange perfume. Lots of class and finesse on the palate. Subtle vanilla note sneaks in below the fruit. Good length.
La Tabardonne: Huge Viognier aromas of peach and apricot, along with vanilla and spice. With aeration, additional exotic fruit notes arise, along with tropical notes. Good acidity helps keep the aromas focused. Texture is round and soft, with plenty of mid-palate. The finish is long and lingering.
Les Clapas: The Syrah really jumps out of the glass and tastes like it's from the Northern Rhône. Rich red fruit notes, a touch of smoked meat and pepper combine wonderfully with soft Grenache to create wonderful texture on the palate. Long and satisfying finish.
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