Southwest Wine Region:
Domaine Chiroulet Côtes de Gascogne
Vin de Pays laws are much more flexible than AOC laws, which has enabled many winemakers in those areas to experiment with grapes and aging techniques not allowed in more controlled zones. Whereas the Vin de Pays tag was once held in disdain by some, it now means freedom to many winemakers.
Philippe Fezas is one such vigneron: Merlot, not normally found in the area, is his grape of experimental choice. Philippe, a Bordeaux-trained enologist and technician at Seguin-Moreau, fashions the 1999 with 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Tannat. Yields are kept deliberately low, a long fermentation is practiced, and the wine is aged in a percentage of new oak barrels. Philippe's father Michel also makes armagnac as well as one of the region's best flocs (Armagnac's equivalent of Pineau des Charentes) at this wonderfully situated property in Larroque su l'Osse near Condom.
Philippe Fezas in 2002
Côtes de Gascogne Rouge once meant tannic,  one-dimensional wine that was mainly employed to wash down the rich local cuisine. Not so anymore: This wine has more in common with moderately-priced Bordeaux than with the majority of its Gascon neighbors.
Cuvée Classique: A well-bred, concentrated wine that shows cherry, currant, vanilla and coffee nuances, a lush texture that glides across the palate, and a moderately tannic, persuasive finish.
 Les Terres Blanches: The domaine's top white wine made with 50% Gros Manseng, 25% Ugni Blanc (from old vines) and 25% Sauvignon Blanc. This wine is aged in neutral barrels where the lees are stirred to develop additional richness. Clean and refreshing with citrus and floral aromas. On the palate, notes of lime, a touch of melon and citrus fruits lead to a thirst-quenching finish.
Floc de Gascogne: (2/3 unfermented grape juice, 1/3 armagnac) is most readily drunk as an apéritif, like Lillet, Dubonnet or, indeed, Pineau des Charentes. The red floc (made with the same grape blend as the red wine) is brimming with ripe black cherry and fresh grape notes along with a touch of almond. The white floc, made with Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, combines notes of freshly squeezed grapes with white fruit and a light floral touch.
La Côte d'Heux: Made with 100% Gros Manseng, this wine sees some aging in barrel (well-seasoned, mostly to work the lees in a smaller vessel). Same composition as a dry Jurançon, but the lower acid level really lets the fruit sing. Honeydew melon and orange skin on the nose. Great texture, its medium-body is buttressed by well-integrated acidity. Just a touch of oak on the long finish. Delightful!
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