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Philippe Fezas is one such vigneron: Merlot, not normally found in the area, is his grape of experimental choice. Philippe, a Bordeaux-trained enologist and technician at Seguin-Moreau, fashions the 1999 with 50% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Tannat. Yields are kept deliberately low, a long fermentation is practiced, and the wine is aged in a percentage of new oak barrels. Philippe's father Michel also makes armagnac as well as one of the region's best flocs (Armagnac's equivalent of Pineau des Charentes) at this wonderfully situated property in Larroque su l'Osse near Condom.
Côtes de Gascogne Rouge once meant tannic, Cuvée Classique: A well-bred, concentrated wine that shows cherry, currant, vanilla and coffee nuances, a lush texture that glides across the palate, and a moderately tannic, persuasive finish.
Floc de Gascogne: (2/3 unfermented grape juice, 1/3 armagnac) is most readily drunk as an apéritif, like Lillet, Dubonnet or, indeed, Pineau des Charentes. The red floc (made with the same grape blend as the red wine) is brimming with ripe black cherry and fresh grape notes along with a touch of almond. The white floc, made with Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, combines notes of freshly squeezed grapes with white fruit and a light floral touch.
La Côte d'Heux: Made with 100% Gros Manseng, this wine sees some aging in barrel (well-seasoned, mostly to work the lees in a smaller vessel). Same composition as a dry Jurançon, but the lower acid level really lets the fruit sing. Honeydew melon and orange skin on the nose. Great texture, its medium-body is buttressed by well-integrated acidity. Just a touch of oak on the long finish. Delightful!
Want to buy? Copyright © 2008 Charles Neal Selections |
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