Domaine Lapeyre Béarn

Southwest Region

Domaine Lapeyre Béarn Béarn is relatively unknown appellation spread over three French départements the Haute-Pyrénées, Pyrénées Atlantique, and the Gers. Béarn is an odd appellation in that none of its three parts are connected; instead they are separated by miles of corn fields, cow pastures, and woody knolls.

The most central and prolific region of Béarn is located midway between Mont de Marsan and St. Jean Pied de Port, within the foothills of the Pyrénées. The Cave Coopérative was established here in 1944 in the town of Bellocq. At the end of 1951, Béarn was granted VDQS status, with its borders bleeding to just beyond the towns of Bellocq, Salies-de-Béarn and Orthez. In 1958, however, the zone was expanded to include the appellations of Madiran and Jurançon. This enlarged territory was classified AOC in 1975.

Consequently, some producers in Madiran release a Béarn rosé (as rosé is not permitted in Madiran) and some producers in Jurançon release a Béarn red (as red is not permitted in Jurançon).

Production within the region is dominated by the coopérative: one independent producer exists in Béarn, however -- Pascal Lapeyre. The Lapeyre family has been making wine here since 1909; later in the century they were the first domaine to market Béarn in a fluted bottle, leading to a court case brought on by the Alsacians to protect their identity. Those from Béarn were victorious, however, which is why the traditional bottle for Béarn rosé and Jurançon sec has remained fluted.

The size of the property was expanded in 1960 by brothers René and Jean Lapeyre, and a new chai was constructed to house more modern equipment. Their wine was respected in the area, but greatly overshadowed by the tremendous production of the local coopérative.

Domaine Lapeyre Béarn Pascal Lapeyre (right), the fourth generation, is now in charge of winemaking for the two vineyards -- Domaine Guilhemas and Domaine Lapeyre. Pascal, like so many other young winemakers in France, is the first generation to have actually studied enology, doing an internship at Château Cheval Blanc in St. Emilion. He is also the first generation to use small oak barrels to age his wine, and the first generation to bring worldwide respect to the Béarn appellation.

The vineyards are located about half a mile uphill from the chai., planted on a 20 degree slope of chalk and clay soil. The harvest is done manually, and normally takes place at the end of September.

The Domain Guilhemas (the name of the property upon which the chai stands) comes in white, rosé and red versions. The white, made from Raffiat de Moncade, exhibits a clean nose of fresh white fruit (white peach, pear) and a pleasing, dry finish. The rosé, made with 60% Tannat and 40% Cabernet Franc, has light red fruit flavors that finish dry. The red is made from 50% Tannat, and 25% Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. It exhibits a wonderfully dark color and soft fruit replete with ripe blackcurrant and plum.

The best wines from the property are released under the banner of Domaine Lapeyre. The white, made from 80% Gros Manseng and 20% Petite Manseng, is aged sur lie in new oak for six months. Exotic fruit and floral notes are well-integrated with vanilla-scented oak, with additional hints of toast and coconut. The acidity level is slightly lower than in neighboring Jurançon, but this makes for a delicious mouthful of wine now. Easily the top white wine from Béarn.

The Domaine Lapeyre rosé is made with 80% Cabernet Franc and 20% Tannat. It exhibits much more color and body than the Guilhemas rosé, and in the mouth, its intensity of flavor is reminiscent of a light red.

The Domaine Lapeyre red is made with 60% Tannat, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet Franc. The grapes are destemmed and fermented separately with indigenous yeasts. The macération period lasts between 15 and 21 days, during which time the cap is punched down with frequency. A small amount of press wine is added to enhance the color.

Each varietal is aged separately in oak, about 20% new each year. Like with the date of harvest, the aging period varies each vintage. Blending takes place after every racking. Fining is done with egg whites, and a very light filtration is performed before bottling. Ten months of bottle age is mandatory before the wine is put on the market.

The wine is, simply put, a milestone for the Béarn appellation. Ripe, dark fruit soars from the glass, while in the mouth, supple vanilla-scented cassis, blackberry, raspberry, and almonds notes coat the palate. The tannins are round and well-integrated, giving the wine structure without being domineering, and the finish is pleasingly long.

Whereas Pascal's Béarn lacks the aging capability of many Madirans, they provide much more immediate pleasure than most wines of the neighboring commune.

Domaine Guilhemas-Lapeyre frequently receives excellent press from Revue de Vins de France, Gault-Millau, and Cuisine et Vins de France.

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