Domaine Ilarria Irouléguy

Southwest Region

Tucked deep within the Pyrénées along the Spanish border, Irouléguy is the western-most appellation in France. In contrast to the masculine peaks of the Alps on the other side of the country, the green grass-covered mounds that comprise the Pyrénées are rounder, giving one a sense of security rather than peril. The green fields lining their sides are scattered with grazing cows and sheep. In the valleys, white houses with red rooves cluster together in small, picturesque towns.

Irouléguy is part of the Pays Basque (Basque Country) that extends north to Bayonne and West to Bilbao, Spain. It is an area rich in tradition, folklore and cuisine. Grapes are planted along the slopes of the mountains surrounding the town of St. Jean Pied de Port and eight other villages that make up the region of Irouléguy. These vines are the last remains of the huge Basque vineyard complex that dates back to the eleventh century.

The Cave Coopérative des Vins d'Irouléguy was established in 1952 and permitted VDQS status the following year. After nearly two decades of continual improvement, the region was granted AOC status in 1970.

175 hectares of vines are planted within the communes of Irouléguy, down from 500 at the turn of the century. The Cave Coopérative is responsible for producing 85% of the wine from this land, and less than ten independant producers exist. Only about ten percent of the appellation's production makes its way abroad.

Irouléguy

The great majority of vines are planted along the sides of the mountains that often slope to angles of 60 degrees. The area enjoys a temperate climate; Spring is mild with periods of rain, the summer is hot and dry, while the Autumn is warm and sunny.

Because Irouléguy is actually part of the mountains, the soil type is very complex: in general, it is comprised of sand and clay, with large amounts or iron that gives it a reddish hue. Vineyards are normally exposed to the South and are usually terraced. The steep slopes between rows normally makes hand-harvesting mandatory.

Reds are generally split between Tannat and Cabernet Franc, although Cabernet Sauvignon often rounds out the blend. They normally display a dark red color, nuances that hint at blackberry, cassis, and raspberry, and finish with moderate tannins. They are best when drunk between their second and eighth birthdays and always provide a sturdy accompanyment to red meats, game and hard sheep cheeses.

One of the top independent producers in the appellation is Peio Espil, whose tiny 6 hectare (15 acre) domaine is located in the small village of Irouléguy, just six miles from the Spanish border. Here the slopes are steep (60 degrees) and cows fill the narrow streets.

Like most people in the area, Peio speaks the Basque language with famly and friends. He studied at La Tour Blanche in Sauternes and at Domaine Cauhapé in Jurançon before taking over the family domaine in 1988. He is a firm believer in organic farming, not because it is fashionable nowadays, but because he feels it leads to a stronger natural yeast formation within the vineyard. His wines are now certified organic (Ecocert). His vines range between 10 and 30 years of age, although some are 45-years-old.

Domaine Ilarria Red: (70% Tannat, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in older bariques) Forthcoming nose hints at black fruit and rose hip tea. Medium to full-body. Notes of currant and red fruit in the mouth. A hint of licorice, a touch of smoke and well-integrated tannins on the finish.

Domaine Ilarria Cuvée Bixintxo: (100% Tannat, 20% new oak) The 2001 Bixintxo (the Basque name for St. Vincent, the patron saint of Irouléguy) contains layers of blackberry and currant-scented fruit, hints of wood spice, well rounded tannins, and a long, brooding finish. The wine will continue to improve over the next decade.

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