Clos Lapeyre Jurançon
Southwest Region
Jurançon is a white winemaking region located near the city of Pau, within the foothills of the Pyrénée Mountains. The region's greatest fame came in 1553 when Henri IV was born and Jurançon wine became part of French history: when the royal infant was Christened, his lips were rubbed with a clove of garlic and moistened with a drop of Jurançon wine. From this, many say, the future King derived a vigor and ardent spirit which were never to leave him.
This 20-mile long area consists of 600 hectares of vines, divided into small parcels and planted on hillsides, often terraced at steep angles. The region's soil contains many round pebbles carried down by the mountain streams and glaciers of the Pyrénées.
Two wines are produced within the Jurançon appellation: a dry white and a sweet white. 
Although small quantities of the Courbu, Lauzet, and Camaralet grapes sometimes used in both, the staple grapes of Jurançon are the Gros Manseng used predominantly in dry wines, and Petit Manseng used predominantly in sweet wines.
The Gros Manseng is a productive grape that produces acidic wines that also demonstrate good fruit. When well made, this dry wine is replete with aromas of flowers (often acacia) and candied fruits. With a little bottle age, nuances of toasted almonds and dried fruits surface. These wines, most normally aged in stainless steel, are normally best before their third birthday.
The Petit Manseng (right) is most commonly used for the region's sweet wines.
Their thick skin allows them to over-ripen on the vine well into November, and at times into December. The region's microclimate allows the juice within the grape to slowly evaporate, concentrating the flavor before the onset of botrytis. Ridiculously small yields are then harvested and aged in oak, producing a sweet wine that combines the roundness of sugar and the liveliness imparted by acidity -- ensuring vigor and finesse on the palate. With time, these wines become golden and exude aromas of flowers, honey, toast, coconut, candied fruit (apricot, mango, pineapple), and spice (cinnamon, clove, vanilla). By their fifteenth birthday, they are veritable liqueurs and, along with Sauternes, Loire sweet wines and Alsatian Vendange Tardive, considered one of the great sweet wines of France.
Jean-Bernard Larrieu
Jean-Bernard Larrieu is now the winemaker of the family-owned Clos Lapeyre, in existence since the first World War. Traditionally the family made more money from the sale of peaches and cows than wine. Later, in the 1960's, more emphasis was placed on grapes (which were sold to the coopérative), yet the bulk of the estate's money came from strawberries grown on the property. In the early 1970s, the family were the first to replant their vines on terraces, something that has now become common in Jurançon. This beautiful system, in which vines are planted in a semicircle (like an amphitheater) guarantees better exposure to the sun, encouraging further ripeness of late-harvest crops.
The property now covers 10 hectares, the majority of which have a southern exposure. The soil is a mixture of clay and silt, with several chalky areas. Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng comprise the majority of plantings, although Courbu still has its importance here. Average age of these vines is 15 years, although an older plot is comprised of 45-year-old vines.
Jean-Bernard Larrieu (left) lives just down the road from the domaine with his wife and two daughters, with whom he insists on speaking the local patois or dialect.
Four wines are produced on the property, two dry, two sweet.
Clos Lapeyre Sec (100% Gros Manseng): Pale gold color. Dried apricot, peach and vanilla on the nose, along with a floral note. Additional hints of citrus fruit and toast in the mouth. Medium body. Long, clean finish. Like a hypothetical blend of Sauvignon Blanc (without the herbs) and Chenin Blanc (without the earthy element).
Clos Lapeyre La Magendia (100% Petit Manseng, fermented in new oak barrels): Nuances of exotic fruits (pineapple, mango, passion fruit). Powerful, yet controlled toast and vanilla flavors, with a hint of additional wood spice. Plenty of fat on the palate is accented by a citrus note on the finish which helps lift the fruit to new levels. Very good length.
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