Spirits -Vin de Liqueur / Armagnac
What is armagnac?
Armagnac is a grape brandy from the Gascony region of Southwestern France. Its closest relative is cognac, another grape brandy from an appellation located about 100 miles north. But even though both belong to the brandy category, armagnac is very different than cognac regarding its grapes, terroir, distillation, aging, blending, aromas, tastes, and textures. In truth, France’s two finest brandies are not very much alike at all.
Let’s look at what is behind this fascinating brandy from France’s deep Southwest.
The Armagnac region, appellation, sub-regions, and their soils.
The Armagnac region is located about midway between Bordeaux and Toulouse and covers parts of the Gers, Landes, and Lot-et-Garonne departments. Polyculture is widely practiced in the region and, in the summer, its rolling hills are covered with colorful fields of sunflowers, corn, wheat, rapeseed, and vines. Livestock includes some cows (mostly of the blonde d’Aquitaine race) and thousands and thousands of ducks. In fact, the Gers is the largest producer of ducks in France. These birds are raised on free range farms, and their meats will be used for such delicacies as magret de canard (duck breast), confit de canard (duck confit), and foie gras (fattened duck liver). Other regional dishes include cassoulet, garbure (duck and cabbage soup), and palombe (wild pigeon cooked in a wine sauce.).
Armagnac is a grape brandy from the Gascony region of Southwestern France. Its closest relative is cognac, another grape brandy from an appellation located about 100 miles north. But even though both belong to the brandy category, armagnac is very different than cognac regarding its grapes, terroir, distillation, aging, blending, aromas, tastes, and textures. In truth, France’s two finest brandies are not very much alike at all.
Let’s look at what is behind this fascinating brandy from France’s deep Southwest.
The Armagnac region, appellation, sub-regions, and their soils.
The Armagnac region is located about midway between Bordeaux and Toulouse and covers parts of the Gers, Landes, and Lot-et-Garonne departments. Polyculture is widely practiced in the region and, in the summer, its rolling hills are covered with colorful fields of sunflowers, corn, wheat, rapeseed, and vines. Livestock includes some cows (mostly of the blonde d’Aquitaine race) and thousands and thousands of ducks. In fact, the Gers is the largest producer of ducks in France. These birds are raised on free range farms, and their meats will be used for such delicacies as magret de canard (duck breast), confit de canard (duck confit), and foie gras (fattened duck liver). Other regional dishes include cassoulet, garbure (duck and cabbage soup), and palombe (wild pigeon cooked in a wine sauce.).
This area of France is also known for the four Musketeers, most notably Charles de Batz, better known as D’Artagnan, who was born not far from Aignan. This swashbuckling image is often portrayed during the region’s many village spectacles and parties during the year. On a clear day, the Pyrenées that divide France and Spain can be majestically seen in the distance. Spain’s proximity has weaved many of its customs into the mentality of local residents, including their love of bullfighting, pasodoble music, and lively village festivals. In addition, many villages host a less violent spectacle called course landaise, in which savage cows replace bulls, acrobatic écarteurs replace toreros, and the animals graze the open fields when the spectacle is over.
Armagnac festival in Labastide d'Armagnac.
The region is also home to Côtes de Gascogne wines, normally made with a blend of ugni blanc, colombard, and gros manseng grapes, but also with chardonnay and sauvignon blanc. These wines usually come from high-yielding vines and are aged in stainless-steel, and his pronouced aromas and flavors are loaded with citrus fruits and subtle herbs. They are highly affordable, and are the perfect summer sippers ! Two other wine appellations that overlap the armagnac region are Madiran, a sturdy red wine based around the grape tannat, and its white counterpart pacherenc du vic bilh, a white wine that comes in dry and sweet versions. A few armagnac producers also make Buzet wine, a hearty red made with Bordeaux varieties.
Armagnac is divided into three sub-regions: Bas-Armagnac, Ténarèze, and Haut-Armagnac.
Bas-Armagnac
Bas-Armagnac (lower-Armagnac) is named for its lower altitude, rather than lower quality. The highest number of quality-oriented producers is located in the northwestern portion of the Bas-Armagnac, specifically in the département of Les Landes.
This region, unofficially known as the Grand Bas-Armagnac, has sandy soils with a high iron content (sables fauves) and small pieces of limestone called boulbènes that yield spirits that are very supple in their youth. The Bas-Armagnac is dominated by baco and ugni blanc grapes.
For more information on our producers based in this region, click on Château de Briat, Domaine de Baraillon, Domaine Boingnères, Domaine d’Ognoas and Château de Ravignan.
Ténarèze
While several excellent independent producers exist in the Ténarèze, this central region is home to most of Armagnac’s négociants. The soil base in the Ténarèze is harder (clay and limestone) giving spirits that are firmer in their youth. Spirits from the Ténarèze, however, are often able to age longer than those from the Bas-Armagnac. Plantings are dominated by ugni blanc and colombard, and many farmers divert a good portion of their crop into excellent Côtes de Gascogne wines or Floc de Gascogne, the region’s equivalent of Pineau des Charentes.
We have one producer from this region, Château de Pellehaut, located right in the center of the Armagnac region, where the terrain sees a slight rise in altitude as well as a shift from the sand of the Bas-Armagnac to clay and limestone here.
Haut-Armagnac
While it’s the largest sub-region in Armagnac, the Haut-Armagnac (so called because of its higher altitude) today produces far less Armagnac than Bas-Armagnac or the Ténarèze. Having been developed in the 1800’s when demand for armagnac grew, it was soon overtaken in quality by these other two sub-regions. Its few remaining vineyards are concentrated in its chalky limestone hills but, as production has diminished, armagnac from this area has become rarer.
Bas-Armagnac
Bas-Armagnac (lower-Armagnac) is named for its lower altitude, rather than lower quality. The highest number of quality-oriented producers is located in the northwestern portion of the Bas-Armagnac, specifically in the département of Les Landes.
This region, unofficially known as the Grand Bas-Armagnac, has sandy soils with a high iron content (sables fauves) and small pieces of limestone called boulbènes that yield spirits that are very supple in their youth. The Bas-Armagnac is dominated by baco and ugni blanc grapes.
For more information on our producers based in this region, click on Château de Briat, Domaine de Baraillon, Domaine Boingnères, Domaine d’Ognoas and Château de Ravignan.
Ténarèze
While several excellent independent producers exist in the Ténarèze, this central region is home to most of Armagnac’s négociants. The soil base in the Ténarèze is harder (clay and limestone) giving spirits that are firmer in their youth. Spirits from the Ténarèze, however, are often able to age longer than those from the Bas-Armagnac. Plantings are dominated by ugni blanc and colombard, and many farmers divert a good portion of their crop into excellent Côtes de Gascogne wines or Floc de Gascogne, the region’s equivalent of Pineau des Charentes.
We have one producer from this region, Château de Pellehaut, located right in the center of the Armagnac region, where the terrain sees a slight rise in altitude as well as a shift from the sand of the Bas-Armagnac to clay and limestone here.
Haut-Armagnac
While it’s the largest sub-region in Armagnac, the Haut-Armagnac (so called because of its higher altitude) today produces far less Armagnac than Bas-Armagnac or the Ténarèze. Having been developed in the 1800’s when demand for armagnac grew, it was soon overtaken in quality by these other two sub-regions. Its few remaining vineyards are concentrated in its chalky limestone hills but, as production has diminished, armagnac from this area has become rarer.
The grapes
Armagnac is made from distilled wine, and grapes are the first factor that gives it an original personality. Even though ten varietals are permitted to produce armagnac, four grapes are commonly used: ugni blanc, baco, colombard, and folle blanche. While these grapes ultimately give different aromas and flavors, they more importantly offer different weights and textures on the palate.
Folle blanche
In pre-phylloxera days, the staple grape for armagnac was folle blanche. Its light bodied wine is low in alcohol (7%-9%) and high in acidity, making it less than ideal at the table but perfect for distillation into fine brandy. Armagnacs made from high percentages of folle blanche offer seductive characteristics: they tend to be feminine, show especially well in their first 15 years of life, and normally have a very fine texture and light, high-pitched aromatics (including budding vine flowers, white peach, dried apricot and orange peel). Unfortunately, the precocious folle blanche (known as gros plant in the Loire) gives low yields, is prone to mildew and rot, and today comprises less than 3% of total vineyard plantings. Folle blanche can perhaps be viewed as the soprano of armagnac grapes.
Ugni blanc
Known as trebbiano in Italy, ugni blanc is most famous in the Charente where it comprises 98% of the Cognac vineyards. Ugni blanc is relatively easy to grow and gives high yields — in short, a wonderful investment for growers wanting to distill their crop. This grape generally produces wines with elevated levels of acidity and low alcohol yet is neutral in taste. For these reasons, ugni blanc now comprises about 55% of the grapes used for the distillation of armagnac. At their best, armagnacs made with ugni blanc contain pleasing floral aromatics that tend to accentuate the spice notes from the oak in which they are aged. They are less powerful and less flamboyant than baco and, in comparison with folle blanche, less aromatic and less fine. Sticking with the opera analogy, we could call ugni blanc the alto of armagnac grapes.
Colombard
After distillation, colombard’s youthful aroma is slightly herbal and reminiscent of freshly mown hay. It never seems to develop the round flavors of baco or the delicate floral notes of folle blanche, nor does it provide the neutral foundation of ugni blanc. While the tenor is especially renowned in the opera world, it is not in armagnac. Most of the colombard grown now makes its way into the region’s delightful Côtes de Gascogne wines rather than through the still.
Baco 22-A
Baco 22-A is a hybrid between folle blanche (a grape of the vinifera family) and noah, a labrusca grape originally grown in upstate New York. It was developed post-phylloxera and was very resistant to rot and mildew. It dominated the Armagnac vineyards between its invention in the 1920s and the 1970s, and most armagnacs on the market from that period are made with an overwhelming percentage of Baco (occasionally spelled Bacco). Obviously, the bass, baco delivers an armagnac that is full-bodied, with plenty of fat and volume. With some age, it expresses itself with jammy dried plum notes, yet it can be somewhat rustic and lack finesse. The effective end of baco, however, was legislated by the AOP board when they decided that hybrids were no longer allowed within AOP regions after 2010. However, after much debate, it was finally reinstated into the Armagnac AOP, with the caveat that it could only be distilled rather than made into wine to sell in bottle or on the open market.
Other varieties that can be planted and distilled into armagnac include plant de graisse, meslier Saint François, clairette de Gascogne, jurançon blanc, mauzac blanc, and mauzac rosé.
Armagnac is made from distilled wine, and grapes are the first factor that gives it an original personality. Even though ten varietals are permitted to produce armagnac, four grapes are commonly used: ugni blanc, baco, colombard, and folle blanche. While these grapes ultimately give different aromas and flavors, they more importantly offer different weights and textures on the palate.
Folle blanche
In pre-phylloxera days, the staple grape for armagnac was folle blanche. Its light bodied wine is low in alcohol (7%-9%) and high in acidity, making it less than ideal at the table but perfect for distillation into fine brandy. Armagnacs made from high percentages of folle blanche offer seductive characteristics: they tend to be feminine, show especially well in their first 15 years of life, and normally have a very fine texture and light, high-pitched aromatics (including budding vine flowers, white peach, dried apricot and orange peel). Unfortunately, the precocious folle blanche (known as gros plant in the Loire) gives low yields, is prone to mildew and rot, and today comprises less than 3% of total vineyard plantings. Folle blanche can perhaps be viewed as the soprano of armagnac grapes.
Ugni blanc
Known as trebbiano in Italy, ugni blanc is most famous in the Charente where it comprises 98% of the Cognac vineyards. Ugni blanc is relatively easy to grow and gives high yields — in short, a wonderful investment for growers wanting to distill their crop. This grape generally produces wines with elevated levels of acidity and low alcohol yet is neutral in taste. For these reasons, ugni blanc now comprises about 55% of the grapes used for the distillation of armagnac. At their best, armagnacs made with ugni blanc contain pleasing floral aromatics that tend to accentuate the spice notes from the oak in which they are aged. They are less powerful and less flamboyant than baco and, in comparison with folle blanche, less aromatic and less fine. Sticking with the opera analogy, we could call ugni blanc the alto of armagnac grapes.
Colombard
After distillation, colombard’s youthful aroma is slightly herbal and reminiscent of freshly mown hay. It never seems to develop the round flavors of baco or the delicate floral notes of folle blanche, nor does it provide the neutral foundation of ugni blanc. While the tenor is especially renowned in the opera world, it is not in armagnac. Most of the colombard grown now makes its way into the region’s delightful Côtes de Gascogne wines rather than through the still.
Baco 22-A
Baco 22-A is a hybrid between folle blanche (a grape of the vinifera family) and noah, a labrusca grape originally grown in upstate New York. It was developed post-phylloxera and was very resistant to rot and mildew. It dominated the Armagnac vineyards between its invention in the 1920s and the 1970s, and most armagnacs on the market from that period are made with an overwhelming percentage of Baco (occasionally spelled Bacco). Obviously, the bass, baco delivers an armagnac that is full-bodied, with plenty of fat and volume. With some age, it expresses itself with jammy dried plum notes, yet it can be somewhat rustic and lack finesse. The effective end of baco, however, was legislated by the AOP board when they decided that hybrids were no longer allowed within AOP regions after 2010. However, after much debate, it was finally reinstated into the Armagnac AOP, with the caveat that it could only be distilled rather than made into wine to sell in bottle or on the open market.
Other varieties that can be planted and distilled into armagnac include plant de graisse, meslier Saint François, clairette de Gascogne, jurançon blanc, mauzac blanc, and mauzac rosé.
Armagnac distillation and aging
For the distillation of Armagnac, the main objective is to heat wine until it boils, condense its vapors, and reconvert this steam into liquid form again. Traditional armagnac is distilled once in a small continuous still called an alembic, which is often transported from one producer to the next between the months of November and January. Unlike a double-distillation pot still that eventually heats wine to around 72% (144 proof), the Armagnac alembic issues a spirit between 52% and 60% (104 and 120 proof).
For the distillation of Armagnac, the main objective is to heat wine until it boils, condense its vapors, and reconvert this steam into liquid form again. Traditional armagnac is distilled once in a small continuous still called an alembic, which is often transported from one producer to the next between the months of November and January. Unlike a double-distillation pot still that eventually heats wine to around 72% (144 proof), the Armagnac alembic issues a spirit between 52% and 60% (104 and 120 proof).
A traveling distiller at work at Domaine Jean-Bon in the Bas-Armagnac.
Armagnac distillation in the alembic
First, the wine enters the fire-driven alembic and is warmed in a pre-heater. From there it passes into the main column where it descends by cascading over several heated plates. When the wine reaches the lower boiler, it begins to steam and evaporate. The alcoholic vapors then rise back through the curved tubes within the plates, forcing the outgoing eau-de-vie into contact with the incoming wine and insuring that additional fruit elements and flavors are transferred to the spirit. Finally the vapors exit through the top of the column and into the condensing coil, where they are cooled from steam into liquid form before dripping into a wooden cask.
First, the wine enters the fire-driven alembic and is warmed in a pre-heater. From there it passes into the main column where it descends by cascading over several heated plates. When the wine reaches the lower boiler, it begins to steam and evaporate. The alcoholic vapors then rise back through the curved tubes within the plates, forcing the outgoing eau-de-vie into contact with the incoming wine and insuring that additional fruit elements and flavors are transferred to the spirit. Finally the vapors exit through the top of the column and into the condensing coil, where they are cooled from steam into liquid form before dripping into a wooden cask.
One of the stills at Chateau de Pellehaut
Great armagnac takes time to evolve
This lower-alcohol spirit retains many esters, acids and congeners that double-distillation purifies or eliminates altogether. In their youth, these non-alcohols can make the spirit thick, rustic and slightly foxy. Given time, often 12-15 years of patience, these elements oxidize and gain tremendous aromatic complexity.
Unfortunately, the commercial market demands products that are young and inexpensive. Therefore, the blends of many négociants (3 Etoiles, VSOP, Réserve, Hors d’âge) incorporate a percentage of double-distillation (reinstated in 1974) which permits the removal of the non-alcohols and ultimately yields a lighter, more neutral and consumer-friendly spirit that can hit the market after only several years.
This lower-alcohol spirit retains many esters, acids and congeners that double-distillation purifies or eliminates altogether. In their youth, these non-alcohols can make the spirit thick, rustic and slightly foxy. Given time, often 12-15 years of patience, these elements oxidize and gain tremendous aromatic complexity.
Unfortunately, the commercial market demands products that are young and inexpensive. Therefore, the blends of many négociants (3 Etoiles, VSOP, Réserve, Hors d’âge) incorporate a percentage of double-distillation (reinstated in 1974) which permits the removal of the non-alcohols and ultimately yields a lighter, more neutral and consumer-friendly spirit that can hit the market after only several years.
Aging
Armagnac is traditionally aged in 400- to 420-liter oak casks known locally as pièces armagnacaises. Whereas Gascon oak was once commonly used, lack of natural resources now warrants an increased usage of oak from the Limousin Forest. The differences between the two types of oak are not tremendous: Gascon oak tends to give more tannin, Limousin more vanilla. Adjusting time levels in newer and second-use oak can compensate for each barrel’s physical differences.
Armagnac is traditionally aged in 400- to 420-liter oak casks known locally as pièces armagnacaises. Whereas Gascon oak was once commonly used, lack of natural resources now warrants an increased usage of oak from the Limousin Forest. The differences between the two types of oak are not tremendous: Gascon oak tends to give more tannin, Limousin more vanilla. Adjusting time levels in newer and second-use oak can compensate for each barrel’s physical differences.
Storage conditions make a big difference on the final result
Armagnac is aged in an overground cellar known as a chai (pronounced like Shea Stadium). Some have dirt floors that maintain more humidity and are cooler, two factors that helps the alcohol to reduce at a faster rate. educes at a faster rate. Dry cellars, like those on a raised or cement floor, will naturally lose less alcohol and quantity than humid cellars.
Armagnac is aged in an overground cellar known as a chai (pronounced like Shea Stadium). Some have dirt floors that maintain more humidity and are cooler, two factors that helps the alcohol to reduce at a faster rate. educes at a faster rate. Dry cellars, like those on a raised or cement floor, will naturally lose less alcohol and quantity than humid cellars.
In the old chai Domaine de Baraillon
Blended armagnacs
Blended armagnacs can be a mixture of various vintages, various properties, various sub-regions and various distillation types. They are very frequently adjusted in one way or another by an enologist to promote color and taste consistency. As with Cognac, the goal is to standardize releases so that a VSOP or XO released in 1993 tastes the same as a VSOP or XO released in 1998.
Blended armagnacs can be a mixture of various vintages, various properties, various sub-regions and various distillation types. They are very frequently adjusted in one way or another by an enologist to promote color and taste consistency. As with Cognac, the goal is to standardize releases so that a VSOP or XO released in 1993 tastes the same as a VSOP or XO released in 1998.
The role of the enologist
Enologists often make their presence felt during three important phases of a blended armagnac’s life. The first is during the fermentation of wine when certain scientific measures are necessary to create a correct, healthy base material for distillation. The second is during the élevage when a producer desires advice on things like barrel rotation or racking—strategies that can accelerate the oxidation process. The third—during the blend or coup—is when the skills of an enologist are utilized the most.
Ideally, the enologist’s influence on the final spirit is minimal; he combines various barrels and comes up with a completely natural blend. Realistically, the enologist plays a role that includes plenty of intervention. During this time, the enologist normally uses his stable of permitted additives to correct or rectify a blend.
Enologists often make their presence felt during three important phases of a blended armagnac’s life. The first is during the fermentation of wine when certain scientific measures are necessary to create a correct, healthy base material for distillation. The second is during the élevage when a producer desires advice on things like barrel rotation or racking—strategies that can accelerate the oxidation process. The third—during the blend or coup—is when the skills of an enologist are utilized the most.
Ideally, the enologist’s influence on the final spirit is minimal; he combines various barrels and comes up with a completely natural blend. Realistically, the enologist plays a role that includes plenty of intervention. During this time, the enologist normally uses his stable of permitted additives to correct or rectify a blend.
Some Pellehaut vines overlooking Montreal-du-Gers.
Permitted additives within the region
There are four groups of additives for armagnac that producers are permitted to use to enhance their final product. These are widely used in the region, although not by everybody.
Water
Water is the most natural additive, normally used to cut excessive alcohol or heat (essential for double-distilled products). Of course, adding water also increases the amount of spirit to sell and lowers duties and taxes.
Enthusiasts should make a habit of looking at the alcohol level of vintage armagnacs. Whereas 80 proof is the normal for the final strength of most cognacs, the character of single-distilled armagnacs are normally altered through reduction. Why? Single-distilled armagnacs, instead of just becoming thinner, take on a more forceful character — rustic, foxy even. Their natural texture and balance of flavors is thrown completely out of balance. Understandably, reduction is a bad word to the armagnac traditionalist.
Caramel
A final shortcut is caramel, a liquid made from burnt sugar. Caramel is dark in color and slightly bitter in taste. It is not used to sweeten armagnac, but rather to adjust its color and establish consistency, or give the spirit the impression of being older and therefore smoother.
Sugar syrup
Sugar syrup is the third adjustment tool that is used to add sweetness to armagnac. It’s normally added if the armagnac is too tannic, or to remove any rough edges it might contain. This viscous additive may be either be dark or light. Legally, 2% of an armagnac’s content can be sugar syrup.
Boisé
Boisé is a second permitted additive, created by boiling wood chips in water, then removing the chips and slowly reducing the remaining liquid. What one is left with is a dark brown liquid that is replete with wood flavor and tannin. The reason for using boisé is simple: it basically gives the impression of oak aging to a final spirit.
Aged boisé is also available to the enologist. It is less bitter than straight boisé and offers secondary wood aromas like vanilla and grilled nuts, giving the impression that the armagnac was aged for several decades in quality oak barrels.
Reading armagnac labels
For the mainstream, commercial market (supermarkets, convenience stores, sports bars), there are various categories that describe minimum ages for armagnac blends. These include:
Trois Étoiles (3 stars), which must be at least two years old.
VSOP or Réserve, which must be five years old.
Napoléon, Vieille Réserve or XO, which must be six years old.
Hors d’âge, which must be 10 years old.
Occasionally these blends contain armagnacs that are older than the minimums, but they do not normally vary from their requirements by more than a few years.
There are four groups of additives for armagnac that producers are permitted to use to enhance their final product. These are widely used in the region, although not by everybody.
Water
Water is the most natural additive, normally used to cut excessive alcohol or heat (essential for double-distilled products). Of course, adding water also increases the amount of spirit to sell and lowers duties and taxes.
Enthusiasts should make a habit of looking at the alcohol level of vintage armagnacs. Whereas 80 proof is the normal for the final strength of most cognacs, the character of single-distilled armagnacs are normally altered through reduction. Why? Single-distilled armagnacs, instead of just becoming thinner, take on a more forceful character — rustic, foxy even. Their natural texture and balance of flavors is thrown completely out of balance. Understandably, reduction is a bad word to the armagnac traditionalist.
Caramel
A final shortcut is caramel, a liquid made from burnt sugar. Caramel is dark in color and slightly bitter in taste. It is not used to sweeten armagnac, but rather to adjust its color and establish consistency, or give the spirit the impression of being older and therefore smoother.
Sugar syrup
Sugar syrup is the third adjustment tool that is used to add sweetness to armagnac. It’s normally added if the armagnac is too tannic, or to remove any rough edges it might contain. This viscous additive may be either be dark or light. Legally, 2% of an armagnac’s content can be sugar syrup.
Boisé
Boisé is a second permitted additive, created by boiling wood chips in water, then removing the chips and slowly reducing the remaining liquid. What one is left with is a dark brown liquid that is replete with wood flavor and tannin. The reason for using boisé is simple: it basically gives the impression of oak aging to a final spirit.
Aged boisé is also available to the enologist. It is less bitter than straight boisé and offers secondary wood aromas like vanilla and grilled nuts, giving the impression that the armagnac was aged for several decades in quality oak barrels.
Reading armagnac labels
For the mainstream, commercial market (supermarkets, convenience stores, sports bars), there are various categories that describe minimum ages for armagnac blends. These include:
Trois Étoiles (3 stars), which must be at least two years old.
VSOP or Réserve, which must be five years old.
Napoléon, Vieille Réserve or XO, which must be six years old.
Hors d’âge, which must be 10 years old.
Occasionally these blends contain armagnacs that are older than the minimums, but they do not normally vary from their requirements by more than a few years.
Vintage armagnacs
Vintage armagnacs can usually be found in upscale wine stores and restaurants. They must come entirely from the vintage listed on the label. As armagnac matures only in cask and not after being bottled, vintages often state the bottling date on the front or back label. In this way, one is generally assured of the spirit’s exact age.
Vintage armagnacs can usually be found in upscale wine stores and restaurants. They must come entirely from the vintage listed on the label. As armagnac matures only in cask and not after being bottled, vintages often state the bottling date on the front or back label. In this way, one is generally assured of the spirit’s exact age.
Distillation date vs. bottling date
What many people do not realize is that a lot of the older vintages have been in glass demi-johns for decades and have not evolved since leaving the barrel. Bottling dates should be put on vintage armagnacs, yet one cannot assume that the bottling was done directly from barrel. That 1947 armagnac may have been put in glass in 1975, making it in truth a 28-year-old armagnac. Consequently, an armagnac distilled in 1970 and bottled in 1998 has the same amount of maturity.
Independent armagnac producer or négociant?
Independent estates will always show the domaine’s address on the front label, along with the appellation (Bas-Armagnac, Ténarèze, Haut-Armagnac). If you don’t see this, chances are the spirit was bottled by a négociant in another part of France, perhaps in the Charente or Paris. Many négociant bottlings have labels that simply read "Armagnac." This is because the spirit inside is a blend of the various sub-regions or because the grapes were grown in one sub-region of Armagnac and distilled in another.
What many people do not realize is that a lot of the older vintages have been in glass demi-johns for decades and have not evolved since leaving the barrel. Bottling dates should be put on vintage armagnacs, yet one cannot assume that the bottling was done directly from barrel. That 1947 armagnac may have been put in glass in 1975, making it in truth a 28-year-old armagnac. Consequently, an armagnac distilled in 1970 and bottled in 1998 has the same amount of maturity.
Independent armagnac producer or négociant?
Independent estates will always show the domaine’s address on the front label, along with the appellation (Bas-Armagnac, Ténarèze, Haut-Armagnac). If you don’t see this, chances are the spirit was bottled by a négociant in another part of France, perhaps in the Charente or Paris. Many négociant bottlings have labels that simply read "Armagnac." This is because the spirit inside is a blend of the various sub-regions or because the grapes were grown in one sub-region of Armagnac and distilled in another.
Aging tanks for wine at Domaine de Baraillon in Lannemaignan
Vintage armagnac
Ideally, Armagnac spends enough time in new oak to naturally pick up color, vanilla and spice. Afterward, in more neutral casks, slow oxidation continues — the alcohol level slowly diminishes while the spirit becomes more viscous and soft, finally reaching a point where there is a playful tension between tannin, fruit and alcohol. If there is too much fruit, it becomes overly reminiscent of a liqueur. Too much alcohol masks the fruit. Too much oak just dries out the palate.
The Armagnac should display finesse (the most possible flavorants enveloped within the most delicate texture) on the palate. Like with wine, one should seek subtle, defined nuances in lieu of monolithic flavors. Rancio notes should never dominate the fruit. Instead, there these secondary notes should ideally dance along the surface of the fruit.
The Armagnac is bottled directly from cask at its natural strength without any sort of outside intervention and the bottle carries its vintage date. This is true, classic Armagnac that guards the individuality of its base material and natural élevage. Obviously, it is the Armagnac sought by connoisseurs.
Ideally, Armagnac spends enough time in new oak to naturally pick up color, vanilla and spice. Afterward, in more neutral casks, slow oxidation continues — the alcohol level slowly diminishes while the spirit becomes more viscous and soft, finally reaching a point where there is a playful tension between tannin, fruit and alcohol. If there is too much fruit, it becomes overly reminiscent of a liqueur. Too much alcohol masks the fruit. Too much oak just dries out the palate.
The Armagnac should display finesse (the most possible flavorants enveloped within the most delicate texture) on the palate. Like with wine, one should seek subtle, defined nuances in lieu of monolithic flavors. Rancio notes should never dominate the fruit. Instead, there these secondary notes should ideally dance along the surface of the fruit.
The Armagnac is bottled directly from cask at its natural strength without any sort of outside intervention and the bottle carries its vintage date. This is true, classic Armagnac that guards the individuality of its base material and natural élevage. Obviously, it is the Armagnac sought by connoisseurs.
A vintage armagnac in a 420- liter barrel at Domaine Jean-Bon.
Armagnac’s interplay with wine vintages
Traditional armagnac has always had a close relationship with the individuality of the wine world. Vintages are an important element that sets armagnac apart from cognac because it is common for armagnac, unlike its Charentais relative, to be marketed by the year in which its grapes were grown. Vintages, according to those in the Charente, are never perfect and always contain some type of defect. Blending helps correct these defects and allows for a consistent, uniform taste.
Yet as there are so many variables that play a role during an armagnac’s life and as different producers approach their craft differently, it is difficult to make sweeping generalizations about armagnac vintages as one might with wine vintages. In addition to the quality of wine, one must consider the quality of distillation, the quality of the oak barrels used during the various decades of élevage, and the naturalness of the final bottling.
Traditional armagnac has always had a close relationship with the individuality of the wine world. Vintages are an important element that sets armagnac apart from cognac because it is common for armagnac, unlike its Charentais relative, to be marketed by the year in which its grapes were grown. Vintages, according to those in the Charente, are never perfect and always contain some type of defect. Blending helps correct these defects and allows for a consistent, uniform taste.
Yet as there are so many variables that play a role during an armagnac’s life and as different producers approach their craft differently, it is difficult to make sweeping generalizations about armagnac vintages as one might with wine vintages. In addition to the quality of wine, one must consider the quality of distillation, the quality of the oak barrels used during the various decades of élevage, and the naturalness of the final bottling.
Optimum age for armagnacs
One of the biggest myths among spirit consumers is that something older is automatically better. The fact is that most armagnacs peak, regarding their fruit, alcohol and tannin balance, between their 18th and 30th birthdays.
It is possible to obtain outstanding armagnacs distilled 30, 40, or 50 years ago. The majority that remains in wood this entire time, however, are often overly dry and dominated by secondary aromas.
One of the biggest myths among spirit consumers is that something older is automatically better. The fact is that most armagnacs peak, regarding their fruit, alcohol and tannin balance, between their 18th and 30th birthdays.
It is possible to obtain outstanding armagnacs distilled 30, 40, or 50 years ago. The majority that remains in wood this entire time, however, are often overly dry and dominated by secondary aromas.
How to serve and taste armagnac
Armagnac is a digestif (a spirit that aids digestion) and is traditionally savored after a satisfying meal. This is certainly not the only time that consumers should enjoy an armagnac, however. Armagnac can be paired with certain desserts — almond cakes, apple tarts, orange and vanilla tarts, nougat and chocolate-based desserts, caramelized pears, fruit salads or plums macerated in Armagnac to name a few. A glass of armagnac also provides a great accompaniment to coffee and cigars (mild cigars matched with armagnacs that have plenty of fruit and viscosity).
Armagnac is a digestif (a spirit that aids digestion) and is traditionally savored after a satisfying meal. This is certainly not the only time that consumers should enjoy an armagnac, however. Armagnac can be paired with certain desserts — almond cakes, apple tarts, orange and vanilla tarts, nougat and chocolate-based desserts, caramelized pears, fruit salads or plums macerated in Armagnac to name a few. A glass of armagnac also provides a great accompaniment to coffee and cigars (mild cigars matched with armagnacs that have plenty of fruit and viscosity).
At Domaine d'Ognoas in Arthez d'Armagnac
Storing open bottles of armagnac
Armagnac is a live spirit that reacts to oxygen, but much less so than wine. There should not be a noticeable difference in the armagnac’s taste as time goes by. But when half the bottle is gone, purists often transfer the other half to a smaller bottle. This reduces the amount of air contact with the spirit and helps preserve the integrity of its aromas and flavors.
Armagnac is a live spirit that reacts to oxygen, but much less so than wine. There should not be a noticeable difference in the armagnac’s taste as time goes by. But when half the bottle is gone, purists often transfer the other half to a smaller bottle. This reduces the amount of air contact with the spirit and helps preserve the integrity of its aromas and flavors.
The best glass for drinking armagnac
Traditionally a snifter is used to taste Armagnac. Smaller, more tapered glasses, however, help focus Armagnac's aromas better than many balloon glasses. Specific glasses have been designed which help concentrate an Armagnac's flavors, including Riedel's spirits or brandy glasses. Thin glass is extremely important in heightening aromatics. Thick-glass snifters belong on thrift store shelves rather than in the hands of connoisseurs.
Warming the glass in one's hand is pleasurable yet causes the alcohol aromas to surface before those of the fruit. Consequently, one normally holds a brandy glass by the base, as one would hold a wine glass. Believe it or not, some people think they should heat the glass with a candle before serving an Armagnac. These people should be reminded of Richard Pryor's mishaps with heated glass!
Traditionally a snifter is used to taste Armagnac. Smaller, more tapered glasses, however, help focus Armagnac's aromas better than many balloon glasses. Specific glasses have been designed which help concentrate an Armagnac's flavors, including Riedel's spirits or brandy glasses. Thin glass is extremely important in heightening aromatics. Thick-glass snifters belong on thrift store shelves rather than in the hands of connoisseurs.
Warming the glass in one's hand is pleasurable yet causes the alcohol aromas to surface before those of the fruit. Consequently, one normally holds a brandy glass by the base, as one would hold a wine glass. Believe it or not, some people think they should heat the glass with a candle before serving an Armagnac. These people should be reminded of Richard Pryor's mishaps with heated glass!
Armagnac tasting
The normal pour for an armagnac is 1.5 ounces, although one can obviously make an assessment with much less in the glass. Procedure for tasting is much like that with wine. First, one observes the color and clarity. Next, the first nose or nose without aeration. Remember, armagnac has much more alcohol than wine. One must play with the angle of the nose to the glass to find the spot where the fruit aromas surface over those of alcohol.
Then comes the second nose or the nose with aeration. Next one tastes—perhaps a few drops on the palate to begin, then a small sip. This may be gently rolled around the palate for several seconds, then either spit or swallowed. Armagnac is a delightfully complex spirit that should be tasted and re-tasted to gain a greater appreciation for this complexity.
Armagnac sales
Armagnac has never achieved the widespread sales figures that its relative in the Charente has obtained. For every 1 bottle of armagnac that is sold, about 150 bottles of cognac leaves a shelf. However, the independent producer of armagnac often commands a more important restaurant presence and level of connoisseur appreciation than the equivalent-sized cognac producer.
The normal pour for an armagnac is 1.5 ounces, although one can obviously make an assessment with much less in the glass. Procedure for tasting is much like that with wine. First, one observes the color and clarity. Next, the first nose or nose without aeration. Remember, armagnac has much more alcohol than wine. One must play with the angle of the nose to the glass to find the spot where the fruit aromas surface over those of alcohol.
Then comes the second nose or the nose with aeration. Next one tastes—perhaps a few drops on the palate to begin, then a small sip. This may be gently rolled around the palate for several seconds, then either spit or swallowed. Armagnac is a delightfully complex spirit that should be tasted and re-tasted to gain a greater appreciation for this complexity.
Armagnac sales
Armagnac has never achieved the widespread sales figures that its relative in the Charente has obtained. For every 1 bottle of armagnac that is sold, about 150 bottles of cognac leaves a shelf. However, the independent producer of armagnac often commands a more important restaurant presence and level of connoisseur appreciation than the equivalent-sized cognac producer.