Spirits / Calvados
What is calvados?
Calvados is a pear and apple-based brandy from the northern part of France along the English Channel in the Normandy region. With a history dating back nearly 500 years, the region has a long tradition of distilling their ciders into delicious and complex spirits. While not as well-known as cognac or armagnac, calvados holds a dear place in the hearts of many spirits lovers.
To create calvados, apples and pears are collected from the ground during the autumn and pressed into juice. The unclarified juice is fermented into a cider with between 6% and 8% alcohol. This cider is then passed through a still, where a 70% alcohol will eventually emerge. This clear spirit then goes into barrel, where it picks up color and additional aromas and flavors. It can be sold after its 2nd birthday but is often aged for much longer.
Calvados is a pear and apple-based brandy from the northern part of France along the English Channel in the Normandy region. With a history dating back nearly 500 years, the region has a long tradition of distilling their ciders into delicious and complex spirits. While not as well-known as cognac or armagnac, calvados holds a dear place in the hearts of many spirits lovers.
To create calvados, apples and pears are collected from the ground during the autumn and pressed into juice. The unclarified juice is fermented into a cider with between 6% and 8% alcohol. This cider is then passed through a still, where a 70% alcohol will eventually emerge. This clear spirit then goes into barrel, where it picks up color and additional aromas and flavors. It can be sold after its 2nd birthday but is often aged for much longer.
Flowering apple trees at Domaine du Manoir de Montreuil.
Calvados appellations
There are three appellations in Calvados: Calvados Pays d’Auge Contrôlée, Appellation Calvados Contrôlée and Appellation Calvados Domfrontais Contrôlée.
Calvados Pays d’Auge Contrôlée
The Pays d' Auge was established in 1942. Apples dominate in this appellation, and most calvados in the region is made with only apples. Calvados from the Pays d’ Auge must be distilled twice, a process that sets it apart from the other appellations.
One of our highly respected Pays d’Auge producers, Calvados Adrien Camut, has one of the most renowned collections of old Calvados around, made from their 25 different types of apples grown on their 115 acres. Another one, Domaine du Manoir de Montreuil, is run by the Giard family, one of the grand old names in the entire Calvados region.
There are three appellations in Calvados: Calvados Pays d’Auge Contrôlée, Appellation Calvados Contrôlée and Appellation Calvados Domfrontais Contrôlée.
Calvados Pays d’Auge Contrôlée
The Pays d' Auge was established in 1942. Apples dominate in this appellation, and most calvados in the region is made with only apples. Calvados from the Pays d’ Auge must be distilled twice, a process that sets it apart from the other appellations.
One of our highly respected Pays d’Auge producers, Calvados Adrien Camut, has one of the most renowned collections of old Calvados around, made from their 25 different types of apples grown on their 115 acres. Another one, Domaine du Manoir de Montreuil, is run by the Giard family, one of the grand old names in the entire Calvados region.
Appellation Calvados Contrôlée
Historically, the expansive area now known as Appellation Calvados Contrôlée was divided into regulated regions, spread across Normandy and spilling across the borders of several neighboring departments. These regulated regions were grouped together in the 1980’s. The soils vary widely from region to region. Most producers use only apples in their cider and the majority distill their cider once in a column still.
The Huard family, who own Calvados Michel Huard, have produced on the Le Pertyer property in the Suisse-Normand (Appellatio n Calvados Contrôlée) for five generations, and it is considered to be the benchmark producer in this vast appellation.
Historically, the expansive area now known as Appellation Calvados Contrôlée was divided into regulated regions, spread across Normandy and spilling across the borders of several neighboring departments. These regulated regions were grouped together in the 1980’s. The soils vary widely from region to region. Most producers use only apples in their cider and the majority distill their cider once in a column still.
The Huard family, who own Calvados Michel Huard, have produced on the Le Pertyer property in the Suisse-Normand (Appellatio n Calvados Contrôlée) for five generations, and it is considered to be the benchmark producer in this vast appellation.
Appellation Calvados Domfrontais Contrôlée
This appellation, established in 1997, surrounds the town of Domfront in the Orne department, from which it takes its name. The usage of at least 30% pears in their distillate is obligatory in the Domfrontais, although it is common for some producers to use 70% or 80%. The appellation mandates that distillation takes place once in a column still.
Calvados Lemorton is run by the family’s 5th generation. Their 3.6-hectare Domfrontais property is planted with both apple and pear trees; the latter's influence is dominant; for every three apples in their Calvados, there are approximately seven pears.
This appellation, established in 1997, surrounds the town of Domfront in the Orne department, from which it takes its name. The usage of at least 30% pears in their distillate is obligatory in the Domfrontais, although it is common for some producers to use 70% or 80%. The appellation mandates that distillation takes place once in a column still.
Calvados Lemorton is run by the family’s 5th generation. Their 3.6-hectare Domfrontais property is planted with both apple and pear trees; the latter's influence is dominant; for every three apples in their Calvados, there are approximately seven pears.
Soils in Calvados region
As it takes 2 hours to traverse the Calvados appellations in a car from north to south and 4 hours to drive from east to west, the soils vary greatly across the region. These differing soils play a role on a tree’s growth as well as with the fruit’s acidity level and pH. Soils in the Calvados region include:
Flint (silex): A sand-based soil type that is formed from a mixture of clay, limestone, and silica into hard, often shiny pieces.
Clay (argile): Along with sand and loam, clay is one of three principal types of soil. Clay binds other kinds of particles together and retains water well. The soil is often very cool and high in acidity. Too much clay, however, makes cultivation difficult because it prevents free circulation of air around the roots. The best clays occur in sediments and sedimentary rocks. These were generally inherited from adjacent continents and carried to the ocean by rivers and wind. Sedimentary rock-based soil has good water retention capability but poor drainage.
Silt (limon): A more fertile soil than sand that consists of finely grained deposits that offer good water retention but mediocre drainage.
Schist (schistes): Most schist has been derived from clay and mud that has passed through a series of changes involving the production of shale and slate along the way. Schist retains heat well but is poor in organic nutrients and nitrogen. It often contains minerals like mica, chlorite, talc, graphite, and quartz.
Granite (granites): A course-grained, light-colored, hard rock consisting chiefly of quartz, orthoclase, microcline, and mica. One of the most common rocks of the Earth's crust, it is formed by the cooling of magma. Granite allows much more water retention than dryer soils like schist, helping to produce more fruit, albeit with a bit less sugar. This soil warms quickly and retains heat well.
As it takes 2 hours to traverse the Calvados appellations in a car from north to south and 4 hours to drive from east to west, the soils vary greatly across the region. These differing soils play a role on a tree’s growth as well as with the fruit’s acidity level and pH. Soils in the Calvados region include:
Flint (silex): A sand-based soil type that is formed from a mixture of clay, limestone, and silica into hard, often shiny pieces.
Clay (argile): Along with sand and loam, clay is one of three principal types of soil. Clay binds other kinds of particles together and retains water well. The soil is often very cool and high in acidity. Too much clay, however, makes cultivation difficult because it prevents free circulation of air around the roots. The best clays occur in sediments and sedimentary rocks. These were generally inherited from adjacent continents and carried to the ocean by rivers and wind. Sedimentary rock-based soil has good water retention capability but poor drainage.
Silt (limon): A more fertile soil than sand that consists of finely grained deposits that offer good water retention but mediocre drainage.
Schist (schistes): Most schist has been derived from clay and mud that has passed through a series of changes involving the production of shale and slate along the way. Schist retains heat well but is poor in organic nutrients and nitrogen. It often contains minerals like mica, chlorite, talc, graphite, and quartz.
Granite (granites): A course-grained, light-colored, hard rock consisting chiefly of quartz, orthoclase, microcline, and mica. One of the most common rocks of the Earth's crust, it is formed by the cooling of magma. Granite allows much more water retention than dryer soils like schist, helping to produce more fruit, albeit with a bit less sugar. This soil warms quickly and retains heat well.
The Pays d'Auge has high quantities of flint (silex) in addition to clay, and this stony soil makes the tree suffer, with many of the nutrients going to the developing fruit rather than the tree's wood.
On the contrary, the Suisse Normande (located in the AOC Calvados region) has a lot of silty clay with some stone mixed in, and apples tend to have more acidity and a bit less sugar, which often leads to a more elegant spirit with purer apple flavor.
The Domfrontais region has more schist and granite-based soil in which pear trees thrive.
On the contrary, the Suisse Normande (located in the AOC Calvados region) has a lot of silty clay with some stone mixed in, and apples tend to have more acidity and a bit less sugar, which often leads to a more elegant spirit with purer apple flavor.
The Domfrontais region has more schist and granite-based soil in which pear trees thrive.
The Pays d'Auge has high quantities of flint (silex) in addition to clay, and this stony soil makes the tree suffer, with many of the nutrients going to the developing fruit rather than the tree's wood.
On the contrary, the Suisse Normande (located in the AOC Calvados region) has a lot of silty clay with some stone mixed in, and apples tend to have more acidity and a bit less sugar, which often leads to a more elegant spirit with purer apple flavor.
The Domfrontais region has more schist, clay, and granite-based soil in which pear trees thrive.
On the contrary, the Suisse Normande (located in the AOC Calvados region) has a lot of silty clay with some stone mixed in, and apples tend to have more acidity and a bit less sugar, which often leads to a more elegant spirit with purer apple flavor.
The Domfrontais region has more schist, clay, and granite-based soil in which pear trees thrive.
The fruit of calvados: apples and pears
Unlike armagnac and cognac, which are made from grapes, calvados is derived from apples, pears, or a combination of the two.
Calvados apples
It is estimated that 800 varieties of apples exist in Normandy, and about a hundred varieties can be commonly found in the region’s many orchards. Unlike table varieties we find on grocer’s shelves, the varieties used for the cider that will be distilled are small and fall into 4 major categories: Sweet, bittersweet, bitter, and acidic.
For the most part, these apples are small and resemble crabapples. They are not the types of apples one would pick off a tree and eat, as they can be quite tannic, dry, or mouthwateringly sharp. Most of the apple's flavor comes from the skin rather than the pulp, and the small size of the apples insures maximum flavor. A large variety of apples is also important for other reasons, including pollination, alternative bearing, and the differing harvesting periods.
Unlike armagnac and cognac, which are made from grapes, calvados is derived from apples, pears, or a combination of the two.
Calvados apples
It is estimated that 800 varieties of apples exist in Normandy, and about a hundred varieties can be commonly found in the region’s many orchards. Unlike table varieties we find on grocer’s shelves, the varieties used for the cider that will be distilled are small and fall into 4 major categories: Sweet, bittersweet, bitter, and acidic.
For the most part, these apples are small and resemble crabapples. They are not the types of apples one would pick off a tree and eat, as they can be quite tannic, dry, or mouthwateringly sharp. Most of the apple's flavor comes from the skin rather than the pulp, and the small size of the apples insures maximum flavor. A large variety of apples is also important for other reasons, including pollination, alternative bearing, and the differing harvesting periods.
Calvados pears
Pears are also used for Calvados, specifically in the Domfrontais region. There are over 200 varieties of pears used for pear cider (poiré) and about 20 are commonly found, mostly in the Orne department. Pear trees have a deeper root system than apples and thrive on the deep clay and granite soils of the Domfrontais. Although pears can be found in other regions of Normandy, many of these are on dwarf rootstock and used more for the emerging poiré category rather than for distillation.
Pears are also used for Calvados, specifically in the Domfrontais region. There are over 200 varieties of pears used for pear cider (poiré) and about 20 are commonly found, mostly in the Orne department. Pear trees have a deeper root system than apples and thrive on the deep clay and granite soils of the Domfrontais. Although pears can be found in other regions of Normandy, many of these are on dwarf rootstock and used more for the emerging poiré category rather than for distillation.
A flowering pear tree at Calvados Lemorton.
The rootstock on which trees are grown
Three types of rootstock exist in Normandy that affect the size of the trees and the density in which an orchard is planted:
Standard rootstock trees reach about 30 feet in height and are generally planted 10 meters apart from each other. They normally don't give much useable fruit until about their 20th birthday. 100 trees of this type will normally be planted on one hectare (100 meters x 100 meters) of property.
Semi-standard rootstock allows trees to reach about 15 feet high, than can be planted about 4 feet apart so that about 600 trees can be planted per hectare. These trees usually produce fruit after only 4 or 5 years.
Dwarf rootstock grown on dwarf rootstock that reaches about 8 feet tall, can be planted at much higher density (up to 1,000 trees per hectare) and begin giving useable fruit by a tree's 3rd or 4th birthday.
Trees on dwarf roots tock often see chemical treatments, while those on standard rootstock do not usually need to be sprayed with synthetic chemicals. Many of the trees used in dwarf orchards produce apples that will eventually make their way into bottled cider, while many on standard rootstock are ancient varieties with a solid track record for producing quality calvados.
Three types of rootstock exist in Normandy that affect the size of the trees and the density in which an orchard is planted:
Standard rootstock trees reach about 30 feet in height and are generally planted 10 meters apart from each other. They normally don't give much useable fruit until about their 20th birthday. 100 trees of this type will normally be planted on one hectare (100 meters x 100 meters) of property.
Semi-standard rootstock allows trees to reach about 15 feet high, than can be planted about 4 feet apart so that about 600 trees can be planted per hectare. These trees usually produce fruit after only 4 or 5 years.
Dwarf rootstock grown on dwarf rootstock that reaches about 8 feet tall, can be planted at much higher density (up to 1,000 trees per hectare) and begin giving useable fruit by a tree's 3rd or 4th birthday.
Trees on dwarf roots tock often see chemical treatments, while those on standard rootstock do not usually need to be sprayed with synthetic chemicals. Many of the trees used in dwarf orchards produce apples that will eventually make their way into bottled cider, while many on standard rootstock are ancient varieties with a solid track record for producing quality calvados.
Distillation and aging
Distillation is the transformation of a base alcohol into a spirit with higher alcohol through heating. Calvados distillation takes place in a copper still, and two types of stills are used in the region.
Pot stills are used in the Pays d’Auge. The stills vary in size so that anywhere between 400 and 2,500 liters of cider can be distilled at a time. With distillation in a pot still, more of the impurities of the exiting spirit—especially the heads and tails—can be removed, leading to what most will agree is a purer spirit, although with less initial aroma.
Outside of the Pays d’Auge, calvados producers convert their cider into spirit in a column still. These are sometimes solidified with brick and mortar but usually travel from farm to farm attached to a chassis and pulled by a tractor. They can either be heated with gas or with firewood. Cider enters the column still and is heated, then rises through a series of copper plates, gently increasing in alcohol as each plate is passed. The vapors are then cooled so that they convert back to liquid form. This is the same process we see in armagnac distillation. Armagnac stills, however, tend to have 7 or 8 plates and the spirit often exits at 52% alcohol. A Calvados still often has 15 plates, and the exiting spirit flows out at about 70% alcohol.
While small amounts of heads and tails can be manually removed, more esters and acids remain in a spirit distilled once. On the other hand, aromas can be more forthcoming with a calvados distilled in a column still. A column still also has the advantage of being much faster and less expensive.
Distillation is the transformation of a base alcohol into a spirit with higher alcohol through heating. Calvados distillation takes place in a copper still, and two types of stills are used in the region.
Pot stills are used in the Pays d’Auge. The stills vary in size so that anywhere between 400 and 2,500 liters of cider can be distilled at a time. With distillation in a pot still, more of the impurities of the exiting spirit—especially the heads and tails—can be removed, leading to what most will agree is a purer spirit, although with less initial aroma.
Outside of the Pays d’Auge, calvados producers convert their cider into spirit in a column still. These are sometimes solidified with brick and mortar but usually travel from farm to farm attached to a chassis and pulled by a tractor. They can either be heated with gas or with firewood. Cider enters the column still and is heated, then rises through a series of copper plates, gently increasing in alcohol as each plate is passed. The vapors are then cooled so that they convert back to liquid form. This is the same process we see in armagnac distillation. Armagnac stills, however, tend to have 7 or 8 plates and the spirit often exits at 52% alcohol. A Calvados still often has 15 plates, and the exiting spirit flows out at about 70% alcohol.
While small amounts of heads and tails can be manually removed, more esters and acids remain in a spirit distilled once. On the other hand, aromas can be more forthcoming with a calvados distilled in a column still. A column still also has the advantage of being much faster and less expensive.
Calvados aging
Once the spirit exits the still, it goes into oak casks where it will pick up color, tannin, and notes of vanilla, caramel, and spice. While in cask, the alcohol begins to mellow while the flavors move from floral and fresh to more concentrated and condensed. Additional aromas of honey, toffee, and nuts might also arise adding to the complexity of a well-aged spirit. During the aging period, the calvados will also be reduced in alcohol with the addition of water so that it nears its final release strength of 80 to 84 proof, although it can also be released at a higher strength.
Once the spirit exits the still, it goes into oak casks where it will pick up color, tannin, and notes of vanilla, caramel, and spice. While in cask, the alcohol begins to mellow while the flavors move from floral and fresh to more concentrated and condensed. Additional aromas of honey, toffee, and nuts might also arise adding to the complexity of a well-aged spirit. During the aging period, the calvados will also be reduced in alcohol with the addition of water so that it nears its final release strength of 80 to 84 proof, although it can also be released at a higher strength.
Large producers vs. small producers
There are approximately 200 producers in Normandy who bottle and sell their Calvados. Some sell a few dozen bottles a year, while others sell thousands of cases.
Small agricultural producers are often farmers, who make part of their income through cider and calvados, and the other half through dairy farming. They grow their own apples on land that they own, press their juice, ferment their cider, distill their product, and age it on their property.
Large-scale producers may or may not own apple orchards and can also supplement their own production with calvados that they did not make themselves. Rather than producing their spirits on a bucolic property, large producers often produce in immense warehouses bordered by large parking lots. The large producers use various techniques to create a consistent taste their domestic and international clientele appreciates.
There are approximately 200 producers in Normandy who bottle and sell their Calvados. Some sell a few dozen bottles a year, while others sell thousands of cases.
Small agricultural producers are often farmers, who make part of their income through cider and calvados, and the other half through dairy farming. They grow their own apples on land that they own, press their juice, ferment their cider, distill their product, and age it on their property.
Large-scale producers may or may not own apple orchards and can also supplement their own production with calvados that they did not make themselves. Rather than producing their spirits on a bucolic property, large producers often produce in immense warehouses bordered by large parking lots. The large producers use various techniques to create a consistent taste their domestic and international clientele appreciates.
Large calvados producers vs. small calvados producers
There are approximately 200 producers in Normandy who bottle and sell their Calvados. Some sell a few dozen bottles a year, while others sell thousands of cases.
Small agricultural producers are often farmers, who make part of their income through cider and calvados and the other half through dairy farming. They grow their own apples on land that they own, press their juice, ferment their cider, distill their product, and age it on their property.
Large-scale producers may or may not own apple orchards and can also supplement their own production with calvados that they did not make themselves. Rather than producing their spirits on a bucolic property, large producers often produce in immense warehouses bordered by large parking lots. The large producers are normally more interested in blending, using various techniques to create a consistent taste a domestic and international clientele demands.
Tasting calvados
Calvados has traditionally been drunk after a meal, partially because of its digestive qualities. And while it is highly enjoyable to have a snifter after a meal (perhaps in another room and in a comfortable chair), calvados can be enjoyed under many different circumstances. Popular nowadays are cocktails made with calvados, while the spirit is also used in many culinary preparations. What's more, a glass of calvados is fantastic in everyday situations, like while streaming a movie, watching Monday Night Football, or working on the computer at night.
Calvados has traditionally been drunk after a meal, partially because of its digestive qualities. And while it is highly enjoyable to have a snifter after a meal (perhaps in another room and in a comfortable chair), calvados can be enjoyed under many different circumstances. Popular nowadays are cocktails made with calvados, while the spirit is also used in many culinary preparations. What's more, a glass of calvados is fantastic in everyday situations, like while streaming a movie, watching Monday Night Football, or working on the computer at night.