Château de Briat - Bas-Armagnac
Spirits / Armagnac / Château de Briat
Mauvezin-d'Armagnac, Landes
There are many chateaux in the southwest of France, but not many with the noble history of Chateau de Briat. Initially constructed in 1540, it served as the hunting manor for Queen Jeanne d’Albret, who was born in Nerac, about 20 miles away. The Queen's son, Henri de Navarre—later Henri IV, King of France—often stayed in the castle and participated in large hunting parties. In 1587, he gave it to one of his fellow officers as a reward for saving his life in battle.
There are many chateaux in the southwest of France, but not many with the noble history of Chateau de Briat. Initially constructed in 1540, it served as the hunting manor for Queen Jeanne d’Albret, who was born in Nerac, about 20 miles away. The Queen's son, Henri de Navarre—later Henri IV, King of France—often stayed in the castle and participated in large hunting parties. In 1587, he gave it to one of his fellow officers as a reward for saving his life in battle.
After changing ownership several times, the château was taken over by the family of Baron Raoul de Pichon-Longueville in 1864. The Pichon-Longueville family already owned the famous vineyard of the same name in Pauillac whose imposing chateau inspired by Renaissance architecture was commissioned in 1851. During the Universal Exhibition of 1855, its wine was classed as a Second Grand Cru Classé according to the ranking system requested by Emperor Napoleon III, who wished to showcase Bordeaux's great wines.
The family used the estate as a country retreat while continuing the château's tradition of distilling a percentage of the harvest every year and stocking its armagnac. When the Château de Pichon-Longueville property in Bordeaux was sold in 1933, Château de Briat was retained by Baron Raoul de Pichon-Longueville's maternal ancestors, the de Luze family. Murals surround the walls of the castle's dining room, each one telling a story of days gone past in the Landais countryside.
The arrival of the Henri IV, King of France, and a lady friend at Briat. The artist had never been to Briat and painted the castle from a description he had been given.
Lost in a forest in Vermandois, Henri IV met a peasant whose head was covered by a beret and asked him to serve as his guide. While riding together, the peasant queried: "Sir, I have never seen the King, and you are surely one of his first officers, Could I not, by your good grace, perhaps see him today?" "Of course," said Henri. "When we arrive, just stand next to me. Among all those who approach, you will notice that only one will still have his hat on. That will be the King." Finally arriving at their destination, the King's courtiers, who had been worried by his absence, hastened to approach him, hats in their hands. Henri did not remove the hat his head, nor did his new friend. Henri looked toward the peasant and said to him: "Now do you see who the King is?" — "Oh my!" exclaimed the flabbergasted peasant. "It's either you or me!"—From the comic opera in 3 acts by Michel-Jean Sedaine entitled Le Roi et le Fermier, performed for the first time in 1762.
In the 1970s, Gilles de Luze was an editor at the Larousse publishing house in Paris, where he had worked for most of his adult life. When his father-in-law retired in the early 1990s, he developed a new love for Briat’s armagnacs, and returned to the family's estate in the small Bas-Armagnac town of Mauvezin d’Armagnac (population 213).
Gilles brought a rare intelligence to the small world of artisan producers, provided a breath of fresh air to Armagnac's governing bureau (the BNIA), and served as an energetic and dignified spokesman for small growers within this humbly regal appellation where tact and restraint did not always lead to favorable did not always lead to favorable diplomatic outcomes.
Gone before his time
In 2003 tragedy struck when de Luze and his wife died in an automobile crash. He was only 53 years old. The fatal accident took place in the early hours of morning just south of Paris as the couple were returning home from an independent producer’s salon in Lyon.
In 2003 tragedy struck when de Luze and his wife died in an automobile crash. He was only 53 years old. The fatal accident took place in the early hours of morning just south of Paris as the couple were returning home from an independent producer’s salon in Lyon.
The launch of Cru Légendaires
Later in that decade, de Luze teamed together with four other Armagnac producers—Yves Grassa from Château de Tariquet, Martine Lafitte from Domaine Boingnères, Jean de Boisesson from Château de Lacquy and Pierre Laberdolive (from Armagnac Laberdolive)—and formed the Cru Légendaires. The mission of this consortium was to promote traditional, rare and deluxe cask strength vintage Armagnacs from their independent estates in the Bas-Armagnac
Later in that decade, de Luze teamed together with four other Armagnac producers—Yves Grassa from Château de Tariquet, Martine Lafitte from Domaine Boingnères, Jean de Boisesson from Château de Lacquy and Pierre Laberdolive (from Armagnac Laberdolive)—and formed the Cru Légendaires. The mission of this consortium was to promote traditional, rare and deluxe cask strength vintage Armagnacs from their independent estates in the Bas-Armagnac
Stéphane de Luze takes the helm
The de Luzes’ only child, Stéphane, was living in Paris spending most of his days making money while observing computer screens. He now found himself as head of the historic château and its armagnac production. Saddened by Gilles’ death and knowing that Stephane’s knowledge of armagnac production was minimal, several of the Cru Légendaires offered Stephane some initial help. Slowly at first, Stephane began to learn his way around the cellar while continuing to follow notes that his father had left behind.
The de Luzes’ only child, Stéphane, was living in Paris spending most of his days making money while observing computer screens. He now found himself as head of the historic château and its armagnac production. Saddened by Gilles’ death and knowing that Stephane’s knowledge of armagnac production was minimal, several of the Cru Légendaires offered Stephane some initial help. Slowly at first, Stephane began to learn his way around the cellar while continuing to follow notes that his father had left behind.
In 20 years, tenth generation Stephane has continued to release traditional, high-quality Bas-Armagnacs that fully display their terroir. Unlike many other Armagnac producers, no ugni blanc is to be found on the property. His eight hectares of vines are divided between folle blanche (45%), baco (38%) and colombard (17%) and planted on sables fauves (light brown, iron-rich sand). The grapes are often distilled separately although, depending on the vintage, that is not always possible.
Briat distillation and aging
While local distiller Roumat visited the property for several decades, upon retirement he was replaced by another local distiller, Monsieur Saint-Martin. Distillation is at 53°: In a good year, Stephane can fill 12 barrels while in some years, like 2022, only 3 barrels were filled. All young spirits see new oak, from both Limousin and from the region (several barrels have been made from oak trees felled on the property). After 2 or 3 years, they are transferred to older casks and, apart from an airing once a year, left to rest in the spacious yet primitive chai.
While local distiller Roumat visited the property for several decades, upon retirement he was replaced by another local distiller, Monsieur Saint-Martin. Distillation is at 53°: In a good year, Stephane can fill 12 barrels while in some years, like 2022, only 3 barrels were filled. All young spirits see new oak, from both Limousin and from the region (several barrels have been made from oak trees felled on the property). After 2 or 3 years, they are transferred to older casks and, apart from an airing once a year, left to rest in the spacious yet primitive chai.
This chai is one of the most beautiful in the region. Formerly a barn that housed animals, it was restructured in the 1970s to hold cement fermentation tanks and racks for about 100 barrels. Another door leads to a separate storage room whose long corridor contains wooden racks for barrels piled three high. The space is cool in winter and slightly warmer in the summer, and the dirt floor maintains plenty of moisture in the space. In conditions like these, quantity is maintained while the alcohol level gradually drops, a factor that helps lead to the round and rich style of Briat’s releases.
The barrels are not topped up at Briat; instead, they prefer to let their level fall, promote air contact to create a spirit that is less aggressive. Assemblage of various grapes takes place after a minimum of 4 years and, at times, not until their 10th birthday.
Château de Briat tasting notes
The armagnacs of Briat epitomize the magical wonders that one can find in a glass of Gascon spirit. As grape blends, barrels and vintage conditions vary, there is no vintage that can replicated year after year. What is consistent is tremendous quality: always lots of nose, a rich palate feel and excellent length. This is classic Bas-Armagnac.
The armagnacs of Briat epitomize the magical wonders that one can find in a glass of Gascon spirit. As grape blends, barrels and vintage conditions vary, there is no vintage that can replicated year after year. What is consistent is tremendous quality: always lots of nose, a rich palate feel and excellent length. This is classic Bas-Armagnac.
Hors d'Age NV
50% baco, 50% colombard. 43.7% ABV. 15 years old. Amber with extremely attractive legs. Supple, elegant texture holds notes of toffee, chocolate, orange, licorice, vanilla, and spice. Great entry-level armagnac and an excellent value.
50% baco, 50% colombard. 43.7% ABV. 15 years old. Amber with extremely attractive legs. Supple, elegant texture holds notes of toffee, chocolate, orange, licorice, vanilla, and spice. Great entry-level armagnac and an excellent value.
2009 Cask 28 (46.2% ABV)
Made with 100% baco and bottled in 2024. From its lovely deep amber color comes aromas of plums, apricots, vanilla, and spice. Flavors coat the palate, that shows excellent balance between the fruit, tannin, and alcohol.
Made with 100% baco and bottled in 2024. From its lovely deep amber color comes aromas of plums, apricots, vanilla, and spice. Flavors coat the palate, that shows excellent balance between the fruit, tannin, and alcohol.
2002 Cask 14 (45.2% ABV)
Made with 100% baco, the rich texture of this armagnac has flavors of dried plums, an exotic coconut note, and some peppery spice on the finish.
Made with 100% baco, the rich texture of this armagnac has flavors of dried plums, an exotic coconut note, and some peppery spice on the finish.
2000 Cask 86 (40.1% ABV)
This cask had been slightly reduced in 2010 for use in an Hors d'Age, then aged further in a humid corner of the chai. The 2000 is made with 70% folle blanche and 30% baco. Its deep color offers notes of crystalized plum, creamy orange, black pepper, and spice.
This cask had been slightly reduced in 2010 for use in an Hors d'Age, then aged further in a humid corner of the chai. The 2000 is made with 70% folle blanche and 30% baco. Its deep color offers notes of crystalized plum, creamy orange, black pepper, and spice.
1996 Cask 123 (43% ABV)
Distilled from pure folle blanche wines, this lovely armagnac has developed into an excellent candidate to have at the end of the evening in front of the fireplace. It shows complex notes of dried plums, creamy toffee, bergamot, spice, along with a hint of smoke on the finish. The finish is long and highly pleasing.
Distilled from pure folle blanche wines, this lovely armagnac has developed into an excellent candidate to have at the end of the evening in front of the fireplace. It shows complex notes of dried plums, creamy toffee, bergamot, spice, along with a hint of smoke on the finish. The finish is long and highly pleasing.
1994 Cask 33 (41.4% ABV)
Issued from 100% baco, this shows wonderful development on the palate, with fresh fruit (plum, quince) having become more complex, with additional notes of cocoa, saddle leather, honey, spice, and a finishing hint of woodsmoke.
Issued from 100% baco, this shows wonderful development on the palate, with fresh fruit (plum, quince) having become more complex, with additional notes of cocoa, saddle leather, honey, spice, and a finishing hint of woodsmoke.
video: Oscar Beckmann and Michael Housewright