Spirits - Vin de Liqueur / Cognac
What is cognac?
Cognac is a brandy originating in the Poitou-Charentes administrative region in along the Atlantic coast in south-central France, about 70 miles northeast of Bordeaux. It takes its name from the historic city of the same name that stands at its center. Its grapes are grown within a delimited region surrounding the city. The grapes are converted into wine and must be distilled twice in a pot still. The clear spirit then goes into oak casks where it begins to pick up color and additional flavor. While it can be used in cocktails, it is most usually consumed on its own, often after dinner.
Cognac is a brandy originating in the Poitou-Charentes administrative region in along the Atlantic coast in south-central France, about 70 miles northeast of Bordeaux. It takes its name from the historic city of the same name that stands at its center. Its grapes are grown within a delimited region surrounding the city. The grapes are converted into wine and must be distilled twice in a pot still. The clear spirit then goes into oak casks where it begins to pick up color and additional flavor. While it can be used in cocktails, it is most usually consumed on its own, often after dinner.
Early history of Cognac
In the late 1500s, the Dutch were the most powerful financial force in the world, controlling much of the commerce up and down the Atlantic coast of Europe. Wine was a large export product from France, whose quality was often compromised during long sea voyages.
Bordeaux was a major port for shipping wine to England and Holland. Wine tended to oxidize and develop bacteria problems during long sea voyages but fortifying it with brandy protected it from such spoilage. The Dutch found that problem by fortifying some wines with brandy so that they would travel better, a concept that later led to the development of port, sherry, and madeira. At the same time, they realized that a market was developing for the consumption of distilled spirits on their own, primarily genever (gin) in their native land. As crop shortages often limited the amounts of grains that could be used to create the base product for genever, the Dutch looked to nearby grape growing regions that lay near the coast, finding the area that lay between Nantes and Bayonne to suit their needs. With the vineyards that lay near the coast, they encouraged farmers to replant their vineyards with high-yielding grapes and funded small distilleries to convert the wine into brandy, often referred to as brandewijn or burnt wine.
The conversion from shipping the usual wine to brandy also proved to save on shipping costs, as one barrel three or four barrels of wine could be reduced into one barrel of brandy, without risk of contamination. Before long, a market developed for brandy shipped on its own, and the vineyards surrounding the city of Cognac were deemed to be the best. What’s more, the Charente River weaved its way from the city all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, making transport even more convenient. People soon discovered that Cognac produced a spirit that was finer than those from other boat-accessible cities such as Nantes and La Rochelle. Demand for the spirit grew and investment besieged the Cognac region, particularly by Dutch and British merchants.
In the late 1500s, the Dutch were the most powerful financial force in the world, controlling much of the commerce up and down the Atlantic coast of Europe. Wine was a large export product from France, whose quality was often compromised during long sea voyages.
Bordeaux was a major port for shipping wine to England and Holland. Wine tended to oxidize and develop bacteria problems during long sea voyages but fortifying it with brandy protected it from such spoilage. The Dutch found that problem by fortifying some wines with brandy so that they would travel better, a concept that later led to the development of port, sherry, and madeira. At the same time, they realized that a market was developing for the consumption of distilled spirits on their own, primarily genever (gin) in their native land. As crop shortages often limited the amounts of grains that could be used to create the base product for genever, the Dutch looked to nearby grape growing regions that lay near the coast, finding the area that lay between Nantes and Bayonne to suit their needs. With the vineyards that lay near the coast, they encouraged farmers to replant their vineyards with high-yielding grapes and funded small distilleries to convert the wine into brandy, often referred to as brandewijn or burnt wine.
The conversion from shipping the usual wine to brandy also proved to save on shipping costs, as one barrel three or four barrels of wine could be reduced into one barrel of brandy, without risk of contamination. Before long, a market developed for brandy shipped on its own, and the vineyards surrounding the city of Cognac were deemed to be the best. What’s more, the Charente River weaved its way from the city all the way to the Atlantic Ocean, making transport even more convenient. People soon discovered that Cognac produced a spirit that was finer than those from other boat-accessible cities such as Nantes and La Rochelle. Demand for the spirit grew and investment besieged the Cognac region, particularly by Dutch and British merchants.
The commercial structure in Cognac
While there are some 5,000 growers of grapes in Cognac, not many of them bottle their own product. Instead, they sell their young distillate to the region’s merchant houses, of which four (Hennessey, Remy Martin, Courvoisier, and Martell) heavily dominate sales. These four are owned by multi-national corporations, making them present in most worldwide markets. Within these corporations, cognac is viewed as a luxury brand and is often packaged in elaborate bottles and presentation boxes. The United States is by far the largest world market for cognac, with China in the number two position.
Independent bottlers also exist in Cognac; although most of them also sell a large part of their production to the merchant houses, buying their products allows consumers to experience cognacs from single crus, single properties, and single distilleries. Cognacs from these properties often exceed the legal minimum age requirements and are sometimes made with fewer additives.
While there are some 5,000 growers of grapes in Cognac, not many of them bottle their own product. Instead, they sell their young distillate to the region’s merchant houses, of which four (Hennessey, Remy Martin, Courvoisier, and Martell) heavily dominate sales. These four are owned by multi-national corporations, making them present in most worldwide markets. Within these corporations, cognac is viewed as a luxury brand and is often packaged in elaborate bottles and presentation boxes. The United States is by far the largest world market for cognac, with China in the number two position.
Independent bottlers also exist in Cognac; although most of them also sell a large part of their production to the merchant houses, buying their products allows consumers to experience cognacs from single crus, single properties, and single distilleries. Cognacs from these properties often exceed the legal minimum age requirements and are sometimes made with fewer additives.
The Cognac crus
Today, the area where cognac is produced is divided into 6 growing zones or crus. The central region has the highest chalk content, an element that helps give its resultant spirits exceptional delicacy and finesse. As one move outwards, clay becomes more present, yielding fruitier and faster maturing cognacs. Here are some basic breakdowns of the various crus:
Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne: Both the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne are the central zones of the region, yet the term champagne is often confusing when consumers see it on a label and expect the cognac to have bubbles like those from champagne. The term champagne comes from the latin campagne, meaning a flat, open space—common to both the Cognac and Champagne regions. The soil is here shallow, and chalk lies just below a thin layer of clay. These are the most esteemed areas of Cognac and usually earn the highest prices from the merchant houses and figure heavily in their most expensive blends.
Borderies: The smallest cru, lying just to the north of the city of Cognac. The soils here vary widely, combining flint, clay, chalk, and sand. Cognacs from this region tend to be rich and round, often with a slightly nutty note. Both Martell and Camus are big fans of Borderies.
Fins Bois: This is the largest cru in Cognac, covered with soils that combine clay and limestone. Its cognacs tend to be fruity and approachable at a young age; consequently, most VS and VSOP-level cognacs are made predominantly from this cru.
Bons Bois: This outer lying cru surrounds much of the Fins Bois and has clay and limestone soil along with some interspersed sand. While cognacs from here are often used by the large houses in their younger blends, they age less well and are not as long on the pallet as those from some of the crus closer to the center.
Bois Ordinaires: This cru mostly lies towards the sea and includes the vineyards near La Rochelle and on the islands along the coast. While there is some limestone and clay, much of the terroir is sandy, a component that that gives cognacs that are less rich and shorter on the palate.
Today, the area where cognac is produced is divided into 6 growing zones or crus. The central region has the highest chalk content, an element that helps give its resultant spirits exceptional delicacy and finesse. As one move outwards, clay becomes more present, yielding fruitier and faster maturing cognacs. Here are some basic breakdowns of the various crus:
Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne: Both the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne are the central zones of the region, yet the term champagne is often confusing when consumers see it on a label and expect the cognac to have bubbles like those from champagne. The term champagne comes from the latin campagne, meaning a flat, open space—common to both the Cognac and Champagne regions. The soil is here shallow, and chalk lies just below a thin layer of clay. These are the most esteemed areas of Cognac and usually earn the highest prices from the merchant houses and figure heavily in their most expensive blends.
Borderies: The smallest cru, lying just to the north of the city of Cognac. The soils here vary widely, combining flint, clay, chalk, and sand. Cognacs from this region tend to be rich and round, often with a slightly nutty note. Both Martell and Camus are big fans of Borderies.
Fins Bois: This is the largest cru in Cognac, covered with soils that combine clay and limestone. Its cognacs tend to be fruity and approachable at a young age; consequently, most VS and VSOP-level cognacs are made predominantly from this cru.
Bons Bois: This outer lying cru surrounds much of the Fins Bois and has clay and limestone soil along with some interspersed sand. While cognacs from here are often used by the large houses in their younger blends, they age less well and are not as long on the pallet as those from some of the crus closer to the center.
Bois Ordinaires: This cru mostly lies towards the sea and includes the vineyards near La Rochelle and on the islands along the coast. While there is some limestone and clay, much of the terroir is sandy, a component that that gives cognacs that are less rich and shorter on the palate.
Our Cognac producers
The family behind Cognac Dudognon have grown grapes in the small village of Lignières-Sonneville since 1776. This village is about 11 miles southeast of the town of Cognac in the heart of the famed Grande Champagne zone, where the soil is largely composed of Campanian chalk.
Cognac Giboin has his principal vineyard property, l’Hermitage, in Borderies with a unique (for Borderies) gypsum subsoil topped with brown clay and virtually devoid of limestone. But he also a small plot in Apremont, about 20 kilometers south of Angouleme in the southeastern Fins Bois. Here the soil is drastically different from l’Hermitage, with much more chalk and limestone interspersed with flint.
When we decided to bring in the cognacs of Cognac Pierre Vaudon, we were pleased to finally have in the portfolio a producer located in the Fins Bois region. Here the soils are mainly shallow soils of clay and limestone called groies, like those of the Champagne crus except for their red color and hard Jurassic period stones.
The family behind Cognac Dudognon have grown grapes in the small village of Lignières-Sonneville since 1776. This village is about 11 miles southeast of the town of Cognac in the heart of the famed Grande Champagne zone, where the soil is largely composed of Campanian chalk.
Cognac Giboin has his principal vineyard property, l’Hermitage, in Borderies with a unique (for Borderies) gypsum subsoil topped with brown clay and virtually devoid of limestone. But he also a small plot in Apremont, about 20 kilometers south of Angouleme in the southeastern Fins Bois. Here the soil is drastically different from l’Hermitage, with much more chalk and limestone interspersed with flint.
When we decided to bring in the cognacs of Cognac Pierre Vaudon, we were pleased to finally have in the portfolio a producer located in the Fins Bois region. Here the soils are mainly shallow soils of clay and limestone called groies, like those of the Champagne crus except for their red color and hard Jurassic period stones.
Grapes for wine that becomes cognac
98% of the Cognac vineyards are planted with ugni blanc, although small parcels of folle blanche, colombard, montils, and follignan exist. The wine from these grapes reaches a very low alcohol level (8-11% by vol.) while retaining high acidity. Wines of this sort, particularly from chalky soils, are ideal for distillation. They are usually distilled in November, a couple of months after the harvest.
98% of the Cognac vineyards are planted with ugni blanc, although small parcels of folle blanche, colombard, montils, and follignan exist. The wine from these grapes reaches a very low alcohol level (8-11% by vol.) while retaining high acidity. Wines of this sort, particularly from chalky soils, are ideal for distillation. They are usually distilled in November, a couple of months after the harvest.
The cognac still and double-distillation basics
Legally, cognac must be distilled twice in a copper pot still heated by an open flame. The typical pot still used for double-distillation is often referred to as the alambic Charentaise because of its widespread use in the Charente--the region of cognac. This still is comprised of onion-shaped copper domes and holding tanks. Distillation takes place through these primary parts of the still:
The pot, also known as the boiler
The still head
The swan’s neck
The cooler with condenser coils
The wine enters the pot, under which a flame burns steadily. As the wine approaches the boiling point, a vapor begins to rise (just as it would with boiling water). This steam collects against the inside of the still's head then searches for a place to escape. Only the lightest, purest vapors are able to ascend into the curved pipe known as the swan's neck. These vapors are pushed through a pipe coiled around a holding tank filled with cold water. In this condensing tube, it re-converts into liquid and exits the still with an alcohol level of around 28-30%, or 56-60 proof.
The first distillation (of wine)
Young white wine is heated in the still until it boils and the vapors begin to rise. The first liquid to come out of the still, known as the têtes or heads, normally contain high levels of impurities and are set aside and re-distilled with the next batch of wine.
The majority of the distillation, called the brouillis, is kept. The wine that takes the longest time to distill and remains at the end, called the queues or tails, is normally too weak and stripped of flavor to produce anything worth keeping. Consequently, like the heads, the tails are often set aside and re-distilled with the next batch of wine.
The second distillation (of brouillis)
The usable material (brouillis) from the first distillation is collected and housed in holding tanks. Afterwards, it is emptied into the pot and distilled again. The spirit exits at a higher strength this time, normally in the range of 68% and 72% ABV. Cuts are also made with heads and tails and what is known as the cœur (heart) goes into barrels made of either Limousin or Tronçais oak that average around 350 liters in size.
Legally, cognac must be distilled twice in a copper pot still heated by an open flame. The typical pot still used for double-distillation is often referred to as the alambic Charentaise because of its widespread use in the Charente--the region of cognac. This still is comprised of onion-shaped copper domes and holding tanks. Distillation takes place through these primary parts of the still:
The pot, also known as the boiler
The still head
The swan’s neck
The cooler with condenser coils
The wine enters the pot, under which a flame burns steadily. As the wine approaches the boiling point, a vapor begins to rise (just as it would with boiling water). This steam collects against the inside of the still's head then searches for a place to escape. Only the lightest, purest vapors are able to ascend into the curved pipe known as the swan's neck. These vapors are pushed through a pipe coiled around a holding tank filled with cold water. In this condensing tube, it re-converts into liquid and exits the still with an alcohol level of around 28-30%, or 56-60 proof.
The first distillation (of wine)
Young white wine is heated in the still until it boils and the vapors begin to rise. The first liquid to come out of the still, known as the têtes or heads, normally contain high levels of impurities and are set aside and re-distilled with the next batch of wine.
The majority of the distillation, called the brouillis, is kept. The wine that takes the longest time to distill and remains at the end, called the queues or tails, is normally too weak and stripped of flavor to produce anything worth keeping. Consequently, like the heads, the tails are often set aside and re-distilled with the next batch of wine.
The second distillation (of brouillis)
The usable material (brouillis) from the first distillation is collected and housed in holding tanks. Afterwards, it is emptied into the pot and distilled again. The spirit exits at a higher strength this time, normally in the range of 68% and 72% ABV. Cuts are also made with heads and tails and what is known as the cœur (heart) goes into barrels made of either Limousin or Tronçais oak that average around 350 liters in size.
Cognac’s aging process and alcohol reduction
As the eau de vie exits the still at around 144 proof, alcoholic reduction begins at a very early age. This reduction is either done with distilled water or petites eaux (a 60-proof blend of distilled water and Cognac). These additions are made once or twice a year. Most cognac finally reaches the market between 80 and 86 proof.
As the eau de vie exits the still at around 144 proof, alcoholic reduction begins at a very early age. This reduction is either done with distilled water or petites eaux (a 60-proof blend of distilled water and Cognac). These additions are made once or twice a year. Most cognac finally reaches the market between 80 and 86 proof.
Cognac blending
Most large houses have hundreds of sources from whom they buy young cognacs. With an enormous worldwide demand for cognac, all houses rely on non-vintage blends to help create consistency. Vintage cognacs are rare. A master blender oversees such blends, using other permitted additives to help make every bottle taste alike. Four groups of permitted additives are at their disposal:
Water: that helps reduce the alcohol level.
Caramel: that adjusts the color of the cognac and makes it darker.
Sugar syrup: that rounds out the flavors of the cognac and makes it sweeter.
Boisé: a wood flavorant that an oak taste to the cognac.
Most large houses have hundreds of sources from whom they buy young cognacs. With an enormous worldwide demand for cognac, all houses rely on non-vintage blends to help create consistency. Vintage cognacs are rare. A master blender oversees such blends, using other permitted additives to help make every bottle taste alike. Four groups of permitted additives are at their disposal:
Water: that helps reduce the alcohol level.
Caramel: that adjusts the color of the cognac and makes it darker.
Sugar syrup: that rounds out the flavors of the cognac and makes it sweeter.
Boisé: a wood flavorant that an oak taste to the cognac.
Age categories
Several minimum age levels are commonly used to differentiate one cognac from the other. While older cognacs are sometimes used to supplement these blends, they normally don’t vary much from their minimum requirements. The cognacs must be aged in oak barrels during these periods.
VS (Very Special) must have a minimum age or two years.
VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) must have a minimum of four years.
XO (Extra-Ordinary) must have a minimum of 10 years.
XXO (Extra-extra Ordinary) must have a minimum of 14 years.
Older blends might include proprietary names such as Reserve Personelle, Reserve de la Famille, Triomphe, Très Rare, Vielle Reserve, Heritage, Age d’Or and the like. These are normally special releases from a house, an older blend that usually surpasses many of the age requirements of the more known monikers.
Several minimum age levels are commonly used to differentiate one cognac from the other. While older cognacs are sometimes used to supplement these blends, they normally don’t vary much from their minimum requirements. The cognacs must be aged in oak barrels during these periods.
VS (Very Special) must have a minimum age or two years.
VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) must have a minimum of four years.
XO (Extra-Ordinary) must have a minimum of 10 years.
XXO (Extra-extra Ordinary) must have a minimum of 14 years.
Older blends might include proprietary names such as Reserve Personelle, Reserve de la Famille, Triomphe, Très Rare, Vielle Reserve, Heritage, Age d’Or and the like. These are normally special releases from a house, an older blend that usually surpasses many of the age requirements of the more known monikers.
When to serve and taste cognac
Cognac is most usually consumed after a meal as a digestif. But cognac should not be limited to this pleasurable occasion. Cognac works well in cocktails (think a Sidecar or a Harvard) and can be substituted for most cocktails containing another brown spirit. In addition, it’s highly enjoyable to sip on a glass of cognac while streaming a movie at home, or while reading in bed. It’s even better to now and then have a little nip while fishing on the lake or out hunting with the boys.
Cognac is most usually consumed after a meal as a digestif. But cognac should not be limited to this pleasurable occasion. Cognac works well in cocktails (think a Sidecar or a Harvard) and can be substituted for most cocktails containing another brown spirit. In addition, it’s highly enjoyable to sip on a glass of cognac while streaming a movie at home, or while reading in bed. It’s even better to now and then have a little nip while fishing on the lake or out hunting with the boys.
The best glass for drinking cognac
Traditionally a snifter is used to taste cognac. While enjoyable to taste cognac in this vessel, a smaller, more tapered glass helps focus cognac’s aromas better than many “balloon” glasses. Most high-quality wine glass manufacturers have specific glasses that have been designed for brandy, and which helps concentrate its flavors. Warming the glass in one’s hand is pleasurable exercise, yet causes the alcohol aromas to surface before those of the fruit. Consequently, one normally holds a brandy glass by the base, as one would hold a wine glass.
Traditionally a snifter is used to taste cognac. While enjoyable to taste cognac in this vessel, a smaller, more tapered glass helps focus cognac’s aromas better than many “balloon” glasses. Most high-quality wine glass manufacturers have specific glasses that have been designed for brandy, and which helps concentrate its flavors. Warming the glass in one’s hand is pleasurable exercise, yet causes the alcohol aromas to surface before those of the fruit. Consequently, one normally holds a brandy glass by the base, as one would hold a wine glass.
Cognac tasting
The normal pour for an cognac is between 1.5 and 2 ounces, although one can obviously make an assessment with much less in the glass. Procedure for tasting is much like that with wine. First, one observes the color and clarity. Next, the first nose or nose without aeration. It is always important to remember that cognac has much more alcohol than wine; consequently, one must play with the angle between the nose and the glass to find the spot where the fruit and oak aromas surface over those of the alcohol. Afterwards, aerate the glass and see if that develops any other aromas. Next one tastes—perhaps with a few drops on the palate to begin, and then a small sip. This may be gently rolled around the palate for several seconds, then either spit or swallowed. Cognac is a delightfully complex spirit that should be tasted, then re-tasted to gain a greater appreciation for its complexity.
The normal pour for an cognac is between 1.5 and 2 ounces, although one can obviously make an assessment with much less in the glass. Procedure for tasting is much like that with wine. First, one observes the color and clarity. Next, the first nose or nose without aeration. It is always important to remember that cognac has much more alcohol than wine; consequently, one must play with the angle between the nose and the glass to find the spot where the fruit and oak aromas surface over those of the alcohol. Afterwards, aerate the glass and see if that develops any other aromas. Next one tastes—perhaps with a few drops on the palate to begin, and then a small sip. This may be gently rolled around the palate for several seconds, then either spit or swallowed. Cognac is a delightfully complex spirit that should be tasted, then re-tasted to gain a greater appreciation for its complexity.
Cognac’s flavors
Each of the age levels above display different aromas and flavors. Younger cognacs emphasize bright fruit and aromas of fresh flowers. With age, the fruit becomes more concentrated, and notes of vanilla and spice emerge. At the 10 or 15 year point, dried fruit, chocolate, and baking spices show their presence. At 20 to 30 years of age, nutty aromas emerge, while the palate becomes rounder and more expansive. With each passing year, the cognac normally gains additional length, whose flavors remain on the palate long after it has been consumed.
Each of the age levels above display different aromas and flavors. Younger cognacs emphasize bright fruit and aromas of fresh flowers. With age, the fruit becomes more concentrated, and notes of vanilla and spice emerge. At the 10 or 15 year point, dried fruit, chocolate, and baking spices show their presence. At 20 to 30 years of age, nutty aromas emerge, while the palate becomes rounder and more expansive. With each passing year, the cognac normally gains additional length, whose flavors remain on the palate long after it has been consumed.