Spirits / Armagnac / Domaine Boingnères
Domaine Boingnères - Bas-Armagnac
Le Frêche, Landes
In serious Armagnac circles, Domaine Boingnères is a mythic producer. Hard to find and available in limited quantities when one finds a source for them, the domaine has drastically cut down its production over the past few years, making their aged spirits even rarer.
Long known as the producer of the finest folle blanche in the region, more than half of their vineyards are planted with this infrequently found grape, planted on tawny-colored sandy soils of the town Le Frêche. Their own still, perhaps the most beautiful in the region, is polished copper and, in accordance with local tradition, completes the single distillation at 52% ABV. Afterwards the vintages are aged in one of two cellars, both of which are relatively dry, yielding armagnacs that have lost very little alcohol during their long aging in local oak. Boingnères’ spirits are fine, powerful, and long, and highly sought after by connoisseurs.
Long known as the producer of the finest folle blanche in the region, more than half of their vineyards are planted with this infrequently found grape, planted on tawny-colored sandy soils of the town Le Frêche. Their own still, perhaps the most beautiful in the region, is polished copper and, in accordance with local tradition, completes the single distillation at 52% ABV. Afterwards the vintages are aged in one of two cellars, both of which are relatively dry, yielding armagnacs that have lost very little alcohol during their long aging in local oak. Boingnères’ spirits are fine, powerful, and long, and highly sought after by connoisseurs.
History
The estate was acquired on June 20, 1807 by Jean Boingnères. While distillation has taken place on the property since the early part of this century, it wasn’t until 1951 that part of their wine was sold to wine merchants and part put through a traveling still to make a few barrels of Armagnac. However, their small storehouse contained perfectly-aged vintages from the 1920’s and ‘30’s—the crown jewels of the estate.
Domaine Boingneres gets discovered outside the region
La Revue des Vins de France is a specialized wine magazine that was created in 1927 in Paris by the journalist Raymond Baudoin. Surrounding himself with a team of intellectuals from different backgrounds (novelists, mathematicians, art collectors, etc.), Baudoin’s goal was to educate consumers, guide them in their choice of wines, and shaping their tastes. Published monthly, La Revue du Vin de France is the only specialized wine magazine to span the 20th century in its entirety in France.
The estate was acquired on June 20, 1807 by Jean Boingnères. While distillation has taken place on the property since the early part of this century, it wasn’t until 1951 that part of their wine was sold to wine merchants and part put through a traveling still to make a few barrels of Armagnac. However, their small storehouse contained perfectly-aged vintages from the 1920’s and ‘30’s—the crown jewels of the estate.
Domaine Boingneres gets discovered outside the region
La Revue des Vins de France is a specialized wine magazine that was created in 1927 in Paris by the journalist Raymond Baudoin. Surrounding himself with a team of intellectuals from different backgrounds (novelists, mathematicians, art collectors, etc.), Baudoin’s goal was to educate consumers, guide them in their choice of wines, and shaping their tastes. Published monthly, La Revue du Vin de France is the only specialized wine magazine to span the 20th century in its entirety in France.
Baudoin was very well known in the quality wine growing circles where he encouraged and promoted direct sales. Much of his knowledge and enthusiasm came from direct visits to producers, whose work he promoted through the magazine. Like this, top producers from lesser- known regions became known to a much wider public.
During a visit, Baudoin was astounded by the stunning quality of the armagnacs of Jean-Baptiste Boingnères and wrote excitedly about his new discovery. Soon the Domaine Boingnères Armagnacs were being sent to the finest restaurants in Paris.
During a visit, Baudoin was astounded by the stunning quality of the armagnacs of Jean-Baptiste Boingnères and wrote excitedly about his new discovery. Soon the Domaine Boingnères Armagnacs were being sent to the finest restaurants in Paris.
The Boingnères-Lafitte family lineage
In 1948, Marguerite Boingnères, Jean-Baptiste's daughter, married Leon Lafitte. The son of a tradesman, Leon was born and raised in Labastide d'Armagnac, a small village near Le Frêche. He became an officer in the French army and, during the Second World War, spent five years as a prisoner of the Germans. In 1946, he retired from the army and returned to his native village. He later became mayor, a post he held for 18 years.
In 1948, Marguerite Boingnères, Jean-Baptiste's daughter, married Leon Lafitte. The son of a tradesman, Leon was born and raised in Labastide d'Armagnac, a small village near Le Frêche. He became an officer in the French army and, during the Second World War, spent five years as a prisoner of the Germans. In 1946, he retired from the army and returned to his native village. He later became mayor, a post he held for 18 years.
The Boingnères estate grows
In the early 1950’s, an adjoining property was bought and added to the Boingnères estate in La Frêche. With newly planted vineyards now in production, he focused his attention solely on the armagnacs of Boingnères.
Over the next 40 years, Lafitte also restored the vineyards on the other property. But rather than following tradition, he began planting less and less baco and concentrated on what he considered the "noble" distillation varieties: ugni blanc, colombard and, particularly, folle blanche.
In the early 1950’s, an adjoining property was bought and added to the Boingnères estate in La Frêche. With newly planted vineyards now in production, he focused his attention solely on the armagnacs of Boingnères.
Over the next 40 years, Lafitte also restored the vineyards on the other property. But rather than following tradition, he began planting less and less baco and concentrated on what he considered the "noble" distillation varieties: ugni blanc, colombard and, particularly, folle blanche.
Folle blanche
This grape was the most nearly the only grape planted in both Cognac and Armagnac during the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. It grew low-alcohol and high acid grapes that in turn created oily yet fine and aromatic spirits. The grape however was largely wiped out after the phylloxera crisis, replaced in Cognac by ugni blanc and in Armagnac by baco. Over the next half century, baco became the most highly planted grape in Armagnac, and gave it the image of being a rich, full-bodied yet slightly rustic spirit. Because of its lower yields, early budding that froze during early frosts, and susceptibility to mildew, folle blanche was largely forgotten. Yet Lafitte remembered the delicate texture of this grape and decided to focus on it and plant more and more, no matter how commercially ridiculous such a plan was. By the early 1970s, over half of his plantings were of this rarely found grape.
This grape was the most nearly the only grape planted in both Cognac and Armagnac during the 18th, 19th, and 20th centuries. It grew low-alcohol and high acid grapes that in turn created oily yet fine and aromatic spirits. The grape however was largely wiped out after the phylloxera crisis, replaced in Cognac by ugni blanc and in Armagnac by baco. Over the next half century, baco became the most highly planted grape in Armagnac, and gave it the image of being a rich, full-bodied yet slightly rustic spirit. Because of its lower yields, early budding that froze during early frosts, and susceptibility to mildew, folle blanche was largely forgotten. Yet Lafitte remembered the delicate texture of this grape and decided to focus on it and plant more and more, no matter how commercially ridiculous such a plan was. By the early 1970s, over half of his plantings were of this rarely found grape.
He also built a new winery and fitted it with a horizontal press—something rare in the region at the time. The following year, a new barrel house was built. Rather than blending the varieties together and then distilling, Lafitte distilled the varieties separately and released many of them that way. In some cases, he blended ugni blanc, colombard, and folle blanche together, releasing them under the name Cepages Nobles (noble grapes).
In 1953, the stocks of Armagnac at Boingnères stood at about 40 barrels. By the early 1990’s, the stock had risen to nearly 560 barrels. The Boingnères armagnacs had become heavily sought out by connoisseurs, and available at top restaurants and serious stores worldwide.
In 1953, the stocks of Armagnac at Boingnères stood at about 40 barrels. By the early 1990’s, the stock had risen to nearly 560 barrels. The Boingnères armagnacs had become heavily sought out by connoisseurs, and available at top restaurants and serious stores worldwide.
The Boingnères vineyards and distillery today
Since the death of her father in the mid-nineties, Domaine Boingneres has been run by Martine Lafitte, a determined, strong-willed, and highly opinionated woman now in her mid-seventies. I first met Martine in 1997 when I knocked on her door to talk to her for my armagnac book.
Since then I have spent many enjoyable afternoons and evenings with her, eating extraordinary meals, drinking excellent wines (she introduced me to her longtime friends Ruelle-Pertois in Champagne), and savoring her exquisite armagnacs. The incredibly generous Martine once invited me over to taste some turn of the century armagnacs with her cousin and fellow armagnac producer Pierre Laberdolive, and I have also spent many an afternoon tasting armagnacs with another cousin Paul Claverie and his daughter Laurence at Domaine de Baraillon.
Since the death of her father in the mid-nineties, Domaine Boingneres has been run by Martine Lafitte, a determined, strong-willed, and highly opinionated woman now in her mid-seventies. I first met Martine in 1997 when I knocked on her door to talk to her for my armagnac book.
Since then I have spent many enjoyable afternoons and evenings with her, eating extraordinary meals, drinking excellent wines (she introduced me to her longtime friends Ruelle-Pertois in Champagne), and savoring her exquisite armagnacs. The incredibly generous Martine once invited me over to taste some turn of the century armagnacs with her cousin and fellow armagnac producer Pierre Laberdolive, and I have also spent many an afternoon tasting armagnacs with another cousin Paul Claverie and his daughter Laurence at Domaine de Baraillon.
The Boingnères estate vineyards cover 22 hectares, 13 of which are planted in folle blanche, 4.5 in colombard and 4.5 in ugni blanc, all on sables fauves (iron-rich sand). The winery has two Vaslin horizontal presses from which the arrives. It is then pumped into the fermentation tanks where yeast is added and the juice is converted to wine. The addition of sulfur is prohibited in armagnac (as it would give the distillate a bad taste): instead, the wine is aged sur lie (which gives more complexity), and then distilled early before any sort of oxidation can take place.
Distilling takes place during the month of November in a continuous Sier still purchased in 1975. This beautiful still, with 9 plates and spider leg exiting pipes, captures all the fine aromas of the wine. The alcohol comes out at 52%, after which it is entered into new oak barrels. About twenty 420-liter barrels are produced a year.
The armagnacs of Domaine Boingnères are important because of their strict adherence to the region’s tradition, that is distillation at a low degree, aging using new oak, locally-made barrels from neighboring cooper Gilles Bartholomo, and releasing vintages at cask strength—many of them still are at 48 or 49% ABV even after 30 years in cask. It has been said that it is a religion not to add water to the vintage casks! Finally, it is the intensity of their armagnacs, whose flavors weave from crystalized plum, to toffee, orange peel, and an intriguing mocha note before roaring to the finish with a finish that lasts for minutes.
As many a professional taster has said, these are not just great armagnacs, these are some of the finest spirits in the world!
Domaine Boingnères Bas-Armagnac “Réserve Spéciale” NV (a blend of folle blanche, colombard, and ugni blanc, between 5 and 10 years old): Dried apricot, cocoa, coffee, and spice notes highlight this excellent entry-level blend. Reduced with water very slightly to 48% ABV, its pure flavors have excellent staying power on the palate.
Domaine Boingnères Bas-Armagnac Folle Blanche 2007 : Here is the story of this cask. For a number of years, I had asked Martine to bottle a cask that fell between the Reserve Speciale and the 2001. "We'll see, we'll see," was her typical response. Around 2021, I was left in the chai with some professional friends while Martine went to pick up some mutual friends at her house. Taste what you want while I am away, she said, handing me the pipette. Wow! I was like a kid in a candy store! After tasting through about a dozen barrels, I focussed on a couple of folle blanche from 2007. When asked if she could bottle those, the response was the same. "On vera," (we'll see). Finally I tried to nail her down: "Damn it! I'll come help with the bottling!" "OK," she said. "When?" "Next Tuesday," I told her. "OK," she said. Tuesday came and I drove to the chai in Le Freche, passing her house in Labastide in my car. I saw her car still parked in front of the house. "Ah, la canasse!" (Oh, that bitch!" I said to myself. "She's not gonna do this! " I drove the 10 km to the chai and from a distance saw the door was open and there were two cars parked in front. I felt better. She was going to live up to her part of the bargain! Along with Claude, one of her workers, we combined two barrels, and bottled 500 bottles at cask strength without filtration and, at the same time, Beatrice filled all of the bottles. As during covid it was difficult to obtain certain products like capsules, the bottles were sealed with green wax instead. Here's the tasting notes: Amber. Floral aromas, along with mocha and vanilla on the nose, on the palate, dried fruit (apricot, orange) glide across the palate, with a burst of alcohol and spice on the finish. The finish is L O N G.......This young, unadulterated armagnac is pure, intense, and explosive!
Domaine Boingnères Bas-Armagnac Folle Blanche 2001: Deep amber. Vanilla scented oak, mocha, and spice on the nose. Toffee, creamy orange and even more spice on the palate. The finish is flavorful, round, and long. I mean, really long!
Domaine Boingnères Bas-Armagnac Folle Blanche 1986: Deep amber color. What a pleasure to taste a 40 year old folle blanche from a great producer that still is full of vivacity! Dried orange fruits on the nose, along with some coffee and chocolate cream notes. The palate is fine and seamless; spice notes ride along the fruit rich in glycerin, and the flavors, rich in alcohol and oak, stay on the palate for several minutes. This is a spirit for the connoisseur, not the beginner. Amazing!
Domaine Boingnères Bas-Armagnac Cépages Nobles 1985: Deep amber color. Aromas and flavors of dried fruits (apricot, plum, orange peel) along with toffee, almond, coffee, and a hint of smoke. Fine and long, with spice notes (cinnamon, clove), polished oak, and dried herbs that add complexity to the palate. Despite its age, this lovely bottling remains fresh, and finishes with extraordinary length.
Domaine Boingnères Bas-Armagnac Baco 1975
Domaine Boingnères Bas-Armagnac Ugni Blanc 1969
