Spirits - Vins de liqueur

Vins de Liqueur

There is another, much lesser-known category of drinks called vins de liqueur (technically on the wine rather than the spirits side, but with much higher alcohol).  Sometimes referred to as mistelles, these are sweet, fortified wines made with unfermented must (unclarified, freshly pressed juice) fortified with the brandy of the given region. 

The process is relatively straightforward: approximately 2/3 unfermented must (containing no alcohol) is combined with 1/3 young brandy at around 60% alcohol. The strength of the alcohol prevents the yeasts and sugar from fermenting, stabilizing the wine between 16% and 22% alcohol. This blend is usually aged in oak casks to pick up more complex aromas and flavors or bottled at a younger age. The sugar from the grape must makes these vin de liqueurs sweet, while the higher acidity and alcohol never permit it to become cloying. 

Usually served with an ice cube in a tulip-shaped glass, all these vins de liqueur are classic French aperitifs, very popular in the 1950’s and 1960’s and enjoying a bit of a comeback-- particularly when incorporated into creative cocktails. They can also be useful when cooking and are a great component to sauces for either meat of fish dishes.

Many regions in France make vins de liqueur using their local brandy. Some of these, which we import, include:

Pineau des Charentes
This  vin de liqueur is certainly the most known around the world. Legend has it that Pineau was discovered by accident when, during a harvest in 1589, a farmer dumped grape must into a barrel he thought was empty but actually contained eau de vie du vin. Several years later he found the barrel behind some others and found the blend to be thoroughly delicious. Its reputation spread and Pineau des Charentes came to be made by many locals.

Maison Dudognon is one of the top cognac producers, located in the town of Ambleville-Sonneville in the heart of the Grande Champagne. They also make a Pineau des Charentes in the traditional method, by combining 2/3 unfermented grape must (containing no alcohol) with 1/3 young Cognac at about 60% alcohol. The strength of the alcohol prevents the yeasts and sugar from fermenting, stabilizing the wine between at 17% alcohol. This mixture then goes into foudre to age for 4 years.

Floc de Gascogne
Floc de Gascogne (floc being local dialect for bouquet) is made with 2/3 unfermented grape must and 1/3 young armagnac.  One of our esteemed producers, Château de Ravignan, makes a delicious Floc de Gascogne using their colombard and ugni blanc grapes and ⅓ Armagnac to stop the fermentation around 17% alcohol. Aged in oak casks for several years, this has enough sweetness to make it a lovely accompaniment to foie gras or Basque cheeses.

Pommeau de Normandie
This vin de liqueur from Normandy, made by carefully blending unclarified apple must with calvados, is subsequently aged in older oak barrels for several years during which time it picks up additional complexity. For more information, check out the Calvados Lemorton and Domaine du Manoir du Montreuil links. 

Ambrosia
This sumptuous dessert wine is a take on Pommeau de Normandie, but turned up to 11.  Made as a side-project by Emmanuel Camut at his EC Distillery, the maître de chai at Calvados Adrien Camut, the must is painstakingly reduced in quantity over a wood fire, then fortified with calvados from the Camut property before being aged in 225-liter barrels for several years.  Deep in color and exploding with baked apple, plum, and other dried fruit flavors, the result is something unlike any vin de liqueur I have ever tasted before; one could even say, the Grand Cru Classé Sauternes of Pommeau!