Wines by Region / Bordeaux
Bordeaux
Arguably one of the most historically famous French wine regions, Bordeaux is inarguably its largest, covering a total vineyard area of over 120,000 hectares. It lies in the Southwest near the Atlantic Coast, more specifically in the northern part of the Aquitaine region of the Gironde department. The western part of this department is coastal and flanked by the Atlantic Ocean. The city of Bordeaux is built on the wide, deep river Garonne, which merges with the Dordogne and flows out to the Atlantic along the Gironde estuary. This vast wine region is generally divided into four sub-regions, Médoc, Rive-Droite (or Right Bank), Graves-Sauternes and Entre-deux-Mers.
The wines produced in the appellations of these sub-regions range from simple table wine to some of the most expensive and sought after wines in the world. The vast majority is red, coming from Merlot (dominant on the Right Bank), Cabernet Sauvignon (dominant on the Left Bank), Cabernet Franc, and a small amount of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carménère. But there are also some everyday and more serious white wines, with the sweet Sauternes being the most famous of the latter group. The grapes used in these white wines are generally Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, along with some Muscadelle used in Sauternes.
Wine production in Bordeaux dates back to Roman times (43 AD), and may have reached its zenith in the 12th century with the ascension of Richard (son of Alionor d’Aquitaine) to the throne and his use of Bordeaux as his French base. This was the beginning of a wine trade relationship with the Brits that would last forever, also coining the often-used term “claret” for the wine from the region. Bordeaux then enjoyed a second golden era in the 17th century when Dutch traders became interested in its wine, opening up trade channels and going so far as to plant vineyards in the former marshland of the Médoc. Also at this time, the vast vineyard land began to be divided into specific areas so that the consumer knew exactly where each wine was from. These areas became known as the Vignoble de Bordeaux, and bottles were labeled with both the region and the area from which they originated. This was the precursor to the famous Classification of 1855, in which a system was set up that ranked the top châteaux of the Médoc according to their price.
Bordeaux, like many wine regions in France, subsequently suffered greatly through the phylloxera epidemic, two world wars, and a period of economic uncertainty. Later tax law changes and more economic downturn left many château-owning families in dire straits. This ushered in a selling/buying spree in which large insurance companies and banks ended up owning many of the châteaux—perhaps the root of the perception of Bordeaux as a more “corporate” wine region than, for example, its rival Burgundy. But the same period also saw some positive trends: a series of approachable vintages and a greater focus on Bordeaux wines by American wine critics created a broader market for these wines, especially the newly introduced second wines of many châteaux. While Bordeaux was previously seen as a wine region for rich, stuffy old English men drinking only First Growths from the Médoc, it began to be seen as the source of many great values for the wine lover who likes a certain type of wine—and who was willing to look outside the famous appellations and the famous châteaux to find these values.
This is where we (always happy to provide value wines from some of the lesser known appellations!) come in, and we have now amassed quite a nice Bordeaux portfolio. Here’s a brief tour of some of our regions and appellations:
Médoc
The Médoc peninsula is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on its west side and the Gironde estuary to the east. For much of its history, the 50-mile estuary coastline was a vast region of salt marshes used for grazing animals rather than for growing grapes. This changed in the 17th century when Dutch merchants sought a way to provide the British wine market with an alternative to those from Graves and Portugal. Using technology that was advanced for that time, the Dutch were able to drain the marshland and convert much of it into viable vineyard plots. By the 19th century, the wine region of the Médoc was one of the most prosperous in France, with many wines enjoying international reputations.
Haut-Médoc
The entire Médoc appellation runs for approximately 40 miles northwest from just outside the city of Bordeaux. Two thirds of this area, beginning at the southern end, is classified as the sub-zone Haut-Médoc. The "big four" Bordeaux wine regions of Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, and Saint-Estèphe took shape in the wake of the Dutch engineering on the northern Médoc peninsula. Along with with Listrac and Moulis, they are part of the six prestigious sub-zones nested within the Haut-Médoc appellation. Châteaux labeled simply as Haut-Médoc rarely reach the heights of the big four, but offer consistently good quality and excellent value—they tend to be fine but firm with generous fruit, a touch of oak and underlying minerality. Most Haut-Médoc wines are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, although small amounts of Petit Verdot and Malbec are sometimes used.
The soil in the Haut-Médoc is mainly composed of thick gravel layers that have been swept down river over time and now sit on a base of heavy clay. The warm, well-drained gravel terraces provide ideal growing conditions for the late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that dominate plantings in the Médoc. Further inland, the soils turn to deep deposits of clay, where the Merlot grape variety thrives.
Our excellent Haut-Médoc producer, Château Semonlon, is located in Avensan (a small commune not far from Margaux) and is owned by the Dumora family, whose patrimony spans several generations. Its 7 hectares are planted with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, while the average age of the vines is 45 years. The château’s annual production is a mere 45,000 bottles or just under 4,000 cases, and we carry their impressive Haut-Médoc bottling.
Rive Droite (Right Bank)
St. Emilion
The vineyards of Saint-Émilion sit on the right bank of the Dordogne River about 20 miles due east of the lower Haut-Médoc. Saint-Émilion is one of Bordeaux's largest producing appellations, outputting more wine than the combined Haut-Médoc appellations of Listrac, Moulis, Saint Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint Julien, and Margaux. This huge appellation has over 5,000 hectares with around 850 wine growers, and more than 67% of its total area is vineyards. It has been producing wine for longer than the Médoc; however its lack of accessibility to Bordeaux's port and market hindered exports to mainland Europe, and the region never enjoyed the commercial success of the Left Bank. This area also has some of the most diverse soils of any wine region in Bordeaux. Many of the best vineyards are located on the plateau where the soils are rich in limestone, and on the slopes around the plateau, comprised of limestone and clay. At the very western end of the appellation, near Pomerol, gravel soils predominate. In addition, across the plain to the west of Saint-Émilion itself, sand lies over the limestone subsoils. Merlot is the king of grapes in Saint-Émilion, followed by Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in importance. Because Merlot is a fleshier grape than the Cabernets and more rapidly maturing, it usually gives wines that are more supple in their youth than those of the Left Bank.
The appellation regulations also allow for a Grand Cru designation based on details of the harvest. Therefore the distinctions between Saint-Émilion and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru are not as large as one might expect, but rather something like the difference between basic Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur. 40% of the wines from this region, in fact, qualify for Saint-Émilion Grand Cru certification.
In the past couple decades there has been an explosion of experimentation and evolution in the region, leading to the rise of a garagiste movement--wines made in very small quantities from small parcels of land. Capturing the attention of the international wine press, many new producers have been suddenly thrust into the spotlight, often overshadowing the established regime of Bordeaux. Our St. Émilion producer, Château Bel Air Ouy, is a bit more traditional (their origins date back to 1672) and uses their mostly Merlot vines planted on soils of clay-limestone with some flint to make their impressive Saint-Émilion Grand Cru.
Lussac-St. Émilion
One of the so called “St. Émilion satellite appellations” that are permitted to add St Émilion to their names, Lussac-St. Émilion has similar soil but a slightly cooler, less river-influenced climate. It is situated in the most northern section of the St. Émilion satellite appellations, just west of the Cotes de Francs appellation. Lussac St. Émilion has a wide range of terroirs and soils, from limestone and clay soils on the slopes, clay and gravel in the valley and sand with clay soils on the plateau. There are some vineyards planted on almost pure clay soils, which are especially beneficial to the Merlot grape—as in St. Émilion, Merlot is the dominant grape, with Cabernet Franc being the next most planted. Wines from this small satellite appellation are hidden gems, and our producer Château Bonnin is no exception. Patricia and Phillipe Bonnin bought this 9-hectare estate back in 1997, and completely handcraft every one of the relatively few bottles they produce. We have recently started carrying their Lussac-St. Émilion, a delicious and approachable blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Pomerol
The smallest important wine region in Bordeaux (with only 800 hectares under vine), Pomerol also happens to be home to not one but THREE of the most expensive wines from Bordeaux (Le Pin, Petrus and Lafleur). Like its neighbor St. Émilion, Pomerol’s principal grape is Merlot, followed by Cabernet Franc. The appellation was officially created in 1936, but is still the only one of the communes to never be officially classified, probably due to its late rise to prominence in the second half of the 20th century. What makes Pomerol so unique and its wines so sought-after are its highly diverse soils (a mixture of gravel, sand and clay depending on which part of the commune). The famous molasse (“blue clay”) on top of a layer of sand filled with iron oxide deposits known as crasse de fer probably would not be as famous if it weren’t in large part covered by the vines of the internationally acclaimed Château Pétrus.
Further fame and lore were thrown Pomerol’s way when its native son Michel Rolland and his distinctive style of winemaking became more well known both in the appellation at his own property, and outside in his “flying winemaker”-made wines. American critic Robert Parker helped cement its international allure (and astronomical prices) with a series of near-reverential reviews (100 points!) during the 1980’s. As you are well aware, all that is not really our bag, so our lone Pomerol producer, Château Sainte-Marie, boasts none of these bells and whistles. Instead they prefer to rely on the same time-tested winemaking that has brought them here today from back in their first vintage on record, in 1874. Their Pomerol is an atypical blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Lalande-de-Pomerol
Lalande-de-Pomerol is found just north of the more renowned Pomerol appellation, set apart by the Barbanne stream, and not far from Libourne. The Dordogne River plays an important role in the region’s microclimate, bringing much needed nourishment and moisture to the vines. Merlot is the dominant grape, comprising nearly 75% of all plantings, followed by Cabernet Franc, which makes up another 15%. Some producers have small amounts of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon planted as well. With 1,100 total acres planted, Lalande de Pomerol is slightly larger than its neighbor Pomerol. Some of the appellation’s soils are composed of clay and gravel along with traces of iron oxide, very similar to that of Pomerol, while other vineyards have sandy soils that produce lighter wines. The Lalande-de-Pomerol appellation consists of two communes, Lalande-de-Pomerol and Neac, the latter having more slopes and deeper soils with better drainage. Château Les Graves de Lavaud, one of our newest Bordeaux domaines, is located on these slopes, on 4 hectares of clay-limestone soil. Their Lalande de Pomerol, made by the notorious Jean-Luc Thunevin, is 70% Merlot/30% Cabernet Franc and was aged for 12 months in new oak.
Fronsac
Fronsac is considered one of the best Bordeaux satellite appellations. Located west of Libourne and close to St. Emilion and Pomerol (as well as the Dordogne River) Fronsac includes seven communes: Fronsac, La Riviere, Saint Germain de la Riviere, St. Michel de Fronsac, St. Aignan, Saillans and Galgon. Two of those communes, Fronsac and Saint Michel de Fronsac, can use either Fronsac or Canon Fronsac on their labels.
The region’s long history goes back to the ancient Romans. From the mid 18th century to the start of the 19th century, the wines of the top estates in Fronsac were better known and often sold for more money than many wines from Pomerol and St. Emilion. In 1936, the Cotes de Fronsac appellation was born, and in 1976 the name of the appellation was changed from Cotes de Fronsac to Fronsac. The terroir consists of clay and limestone soils that are not that different to those found in St. Emilion. On the plateau, the terroir is mostly limestone. As you travel further down the slopes, you find clay with limestone and at the base the soils are more sand with clay. Some of the best terroir is located on the limestone bluffs overlooking the Dordogne River, with elevations close to 300 feet. Merlot and Cabernet Franc are the two most important grapes planted in the appellation, while small amounts of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon sometimes appear. Fronsac wines are delicious, rich, fine and affordable. They drink well young, and offer some of the best value in Bordeaux.
Our first Fronsac producer, Château de Carles, produces what we feel is one of those—their Fronsac AOP, comprised of mostly Merlot with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, is a classic drinkable Bordeaux. Its appeal is further enhanced by the fact that we can work directly with the château rather than through a negociant. A more recent addition to our Bordeaux book, Château La Vielle Cure has roots in the appellation going back to at least 1780. Now owned by a Bordeaux-loving American couple, the château gives us a traditionally made Merlot-dominated Fronsac wine that pleasurably reflects its limestone, chalk and clay soils.
Entre-Deux-Mers
The wine powers that be gave this entire Bordeaux sub-region (the largest area-wise, though not planted area-wise) the name Entre-Deux-Mers because it sits between the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers. That is somewhat misleading, however, as it is more of a regional than a wine designation. Only a limited number of dry white wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle (and sometimes Sauvignon Gris) may actually carry that AOP name on their labels, whereas all red wines produced within the geographical sub-region must be called Bordeaux or Bordeaux Supérieur. As red wine production became more profitable over the years, the number of white Entre-deux-Mers producers has dwindled, and we feel that our producer, Château Lestrille, has continued to stand out as a faithful benchmark of the appellation. Their version, always with mostly Sauvignon Blanc and a touch of each of the other three grapes, is uncomplicated and tasty, perfect with oysters or simply by the glass.
Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur
As mentioned, the red wines of the Entre-deux-Mers sub-region are entitled to the appellation Bordeaux Contrôlée. If their yield is below a certain point and their alcohol level half a degree higher (12.5%), they are entitled to the appellation Bordeaux Supérieur Contrôlée. Thus Bordeaux “Supes” are generally considered a step up from straight Bordeaux. This is not a lowly appellation is to be scoffed at, and our now famous Bordeaux Supérieur domaine, Château de Cugat, perfectly demonstrates why. In 1926, the property was acquired by the grandmother of the winemaker Benoit Meyer. When Benoit began overseeing the estate in the early nineties, he dreamed of making a wine that would make people think they were drinking something from an area more lofty than the humble Entre-Deux-Mers. After all, part of his vineyard had a mixture of sand and gravel soil, much like parts of nearby Pomerol. And a parcel of the vineyard was between 40 and 50 years old and had wonderful exposition. Well, we think he achieved this dream: today he produces 3 wonderful wines (Classique, Première and Francis Meyer, all of which we have brought in from the beginning), and because of their “mere” Bordeaux-Supérieur designation their prices are hard to believe. In short, a perfect Charles Neal Selections producer!
Also bringing us a couple great Bordeaux Supérieurs is a domaine with 250 years of grape-growing history, Château Tour de Mirambeau. The Despagne family produces a variety of reds and whites, and we almost always carry the Bordeaux Supérieur Cuvée Passion White and Cuvée Passion Red. And finally, Château Lestrille-Capmartin, who makes our great Entre-deux-Mers, also makes a Bordeaux Supérieur to which we always look forward.
Côtes de Bourg
This small appellation within Entre-deux-Mers covers the wines made around the town of Bourg, very close to the city of Bordeaux. The soils here are a mixture of clay, sand and gravel (depending on which part you are in), and not surprisingly Merlot is king of the grapes, though Cabernet Sauvignon can also thrive in the gravelly areas. Because of relatively recent changes in winemaking philosophies and a subsequent shift in style, wines from the Côtes de Bourg have become more popular. Like its northerly neighbor Blaye, the domaines in the AOP are now more than ever capable of putting out soft, fruit-forward wines with amazingly low prices. Château Côtes de Bellevue is doing just that—its Côtes de Bourg is a fruity, delicious blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot and even a touch of Malbec. It is meant to be drunk young with a nice juicy steak.
Graves-Sauternes
Sauternes
Perhaps the most famous sweet wine producing region in the world, Sauternes lies southeast of Bordeaux, next to Graves. This is a heavily wooded area between the Garonne River and the forests of Les Landes, which stretch toward the Atlantic Ocean. Across the center of this small area flows the tiny Ciron River. It is the interaction of the warmer Garonne and cooler Ciron rivers that produce the morning mist that rises from the water and moistens the grapes, before the warm afternoon sun acts as a catalyst for the growth of a fungus on the grapes’ skins. This fungus is exactly what makes wines from Sauternes so justifiably famous—the Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes grown here become severely affected by this “Noble Rot”, scientifically known as Botrytis cinerea. The fungus digests the skin, and the grape rapidly becomes dehydrated. The skin shrivels and wrinkles, and the juice becomes more and more concentrated. This juice goes into what will become some of the finest sweet wines in the world, which is why this Noble Rot is encouraged. Because of the resulting high levels of sugar in the wines, they are also among the world’s most ageable, and if you’ve ever had the pleasure of drinking a 100-year old Sauternes, you already know this. Even many non-experts are familiar with the famous Château d’Yquem and its astronomical prices.
As is always my goal, I sought to find a Sauternes in a different realm, a more affordable, yet still highly typical example. And I am proud to say I believe I succeeded when I (fairly early on) began working with Château Haut-Mayne. Located only a few kilometers from Château d’Yquem, the domaine handcrafts a wonderful Semillon-heavy Sauternes in 375ml bottles, and at a price that allows anyone on any budget to have the pleasure of tasting fine Sauternes.
The wines produced in the appellations of these sub-regions range from simple table wine to some of the most expensive and sought after wines in the world. The vast majority is red, coming from Merlot (dominant on the Right Bank), Cabernet Sauvignon (dominant on the Left Bank), Cabernet Franc, and a small amount of Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carménère. But there are also some everyday and more serious white wines, with the sweet Sauternes being the most famous of the latter group. The grapes used in these white wines are generally Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, along with some Muscadelle used in Sauternes.
Wine production in Bordeaux dates back to Roman times (43 AD), and may have reached its zenith in the 12th century with the ascension of Richard (son of Alionor d’Aquitaine) to the throne and his use of Bordeaux as his French base. This was the beginning of a wine trade relationship with the Brits that would last forever, also coining the often-used term “claret” for the wine from the region. Bordeaux then enjoyed a second golden era in the 17th century when Dutch traders became interested in its wine, opening up trade channels and going so far as to plant vineyards in the former marshland of the Médoc. Also at this time, the vast vineyard land began to be divided into specific areas so that the consumer knew exactly where each wine was from. These areas became known as the Vignoble de Bordeaux, and bottles were labeled with both the region and the area from which they originated. This was the precursor to the famous Classification of 1855, in which a system was set up that ranked the top châteaux of the Médoc according to their price.
Bordeaux, like many wine regions in France, subsequently suffered greatly through the phylloxera epidemic, two world wars, and a period of economic uncertainty. Later tax law changes and more economic downturn left many château-owning families in dire straits. This ushered in a selling/buying spree in which large insurance companies and banks ended up owning many of the châteaux—perhaps the root of the perception of Bordeaux as a more “corporate” wine region than, for example, its rival Burgundy. But the same period also saw some positive trends: a series of approachable vintages and a greater focus on Bordeaux wines by American wine critics created a broader market for these wines, especially the newly introduced second wines of many châteaux. While Bordeaux was previously seen as a wine region for rich, stuffy old English men drinking only First Growths from the Médoc, it began to be seen as the source of many great values for the wine lover who likes a certain type of wine—and who was willing to look outside the famous appellations and the famous châteaux to find these values.
This is where we (always happy to provide value wines from some of the lesser known appellations!) come in, and we have now amassed quite a nice Bordeaux portfolio. Here’s a brief tour of some of our regions and appellations:
Médoc
The Médoc peninsula is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean on its west side and the Gironde estuary to the east. For much of its history, the 50-mile estuary coastline was a vast region of salt marshes used for grazing animals rather than for growing grapes. This changed in the 17th century when Dutch merchants sought a way to provide the British wine market with an alternative to those from Graves and Portugal. Using technology that was advanced for that time, the Dutch were able to drain the marshland and convert much of it into viable vineyard plots. By the 19th century, the wine region of the Médoc was one of the most prosperous in France, with many wines enjoying international reputations.
Haut-Médoc
The entire Médoc appellation runs for approximately 40 miles northwest from just outside the city of Bordeaux. Two thirds of this area, beginning at the southern end, is classified as the sub-zone Haut-Médoc. The "big four" Bordeaux wine regions of Margaux, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, and Saint-Estèphe took shape in the wake of the Dutch engineering on the northern Médoc peninsula. Along with with Listrac and Moulis, they are part of the six prestigious sub-zones nested within the Haut-Médoc appellation. Châteaux labeled simply as Haut-Médoc rarely reach the heights of the big four, but offer consistently good quality and excellent value—they tend to be fine but firm with generous fruit, a touch of oak and underlying minerality. Most Haut-Médoc wines are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, although small amounts of Petit Verdot and Malbec are sometimes used.
The soil in the Haut-Médoc is mainly composed of thick gravel layers that have been swept down river over time and now sit on a base of heavy clay. The warm, well-drained gravel terraces provide ideal growing conditions for the late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon grapes that dominate plantings in the Médoc. Further inland, the soils turn to deep deposits of clay, where the Merlot grape variety thrives.
Our excellent Haut-Médoc producer, Château Semonlon, is located in Avensan (a small commune not far from Margaux) and is owned by the Dumora family, whose patrimony spans several generations. Its 7 hectares are planted with 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, while the average age of the vines is 45 years. The château’s annual production is a mere 45,000 bottles or just under 4,000 cases, and we carry their impressive Haut-Médoc bottling.
Rive Droite (Right Bank)
St. Emilion
The vineyards of Saint-Émilion sit on the right bank of the Dordogne River about 20 miles due east of the lower Haut-Médoc. Saint-Émilion is one of Bordeaux's largest producing appellations, outputting more wine than the combined Haut-Médoc appellations of Listrac, Moulis, Saint Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint Julien, and Margaux. This huge appellation has over 5,000 hectares with around 850 wine growers, and more than 67% of its total area is vineyards. It has been producing wine for longer than the Médoc; however its lack of accessibility to Bordeaux's port and market hindered exports to mainland Europe, and the region never enjoyed the commercial success of the Left Bank. This area also has some of the most diverse soils of any wine region in Bordeaux. Many of the best vineyards are located on the plateau where the soils are rich in limestone, and on the slopes around the plateau, comprised of limestone and clay. At the very western end of the appellation, near Pomerol, gravel soils predominate. In addition, across the plain to the west of Saint-Émilion itself, sand lies over the limestone subsoils. Merlot is the king of grapes in Saint-Émilion, followed by Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in importance. Because Merlot is a fleshier grape than the Cabernets and more rapidly maturing, it usually gives wines that are more supple in their youth than those of the Left Bank.
The appellation regulations also allow for a Grand Cru designation based on details of the harvest. Therefore the distinctions between Saint-Émilion and Saint-Émilion Grand Cru are not as large as one might expect, but rather something like the difference between basic Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur. 40% of the wines from this region, in fact, qualify for Saint-Émilion Grand Cru certification.
In the past couple decades there has been an explosion of experimentation and evolution in the region, leading to the rise of a garagiste movement--wines made in very small quantities from small parcels of land. Capturing the attention of the international wine press, many new producers have been suddenly thrust into the spotlight, often overshadowing the established regime of Bordeaux. Our St. Émilion producer, Château Bel Air Ouy, is a bit more traditional (their origins date back to 1672) and uses their mostly Merlot vines planted on soils of clay-limestone with some flint to make their impressive Saint-Émilion Grand Cru.
Lussac-St. Émilion
One of the so called “St. Émilion satellite appellations” that are permitted to add St Émilion to their names, Lussac-St. Émilion has similar soil but a slightly cooler, less river-influenced climate. It is situated in the most northern section of the St. Émilion satellite appellations, just west of the Cotes de Francs appellation. Lussac St. Émilion has a wide range of terroirs and soils, from limestone and clay soils on the slopes, clay and gravel in the valley and sand with clay soils on the plateau. There are some vineyards planted on almost pure clay soils, which are especially beneficial to the Merlot grape—as in St. Émilion, Merlot is the dominant grape, with Cabernet Franc being the next most planted. Wines from this small satellite appellation are hidden gems, and our producer Château Bonnin is no exception. Patricia and Phillipe Bonnin bought this 9-hectare estate back in 1997, and completely handcraft every one of the relatively few bottles they produce. We have recently started carrying their Lussac-St. Émilion, a delicious and approachable blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Pomerol
The smallest important wine region in Bordeaux (with only 800 hectares under vine), Pomerol also happens to be home to not one but THREE of the most expensive wines from Bordeaux (Le Pin, Petrus and Lafleur). Like its neighbor St. Émilion, Pomerol’s principal grape is Merlot, followed by Cabernet Franc. The appellation was officially created in 1936, but is still the only one of the communes to never be officially classified, probably due to its late rise to prominence in the second half of the 20th century. What makes Pomerol so unique and its wines so sought-after are its highly diverse soils (a mixture of gravel, sand and clay depending on which part of the commune). The famous molasse (“blue clay”) on top of a layer of sand filled with iron oxide deposits known as crasse de fer probably would not be as famous if it weren’t in large part covered by the vines of the internationally acclaimed Château Pétrus.
Further fame and lore were thrown Pomerol’s way when its native son Michel Rolland and his distinctive style of winemaking became more well known both in the appellation at his own property, and outside in his “flying winemaker”-made wines. American critic Robert Parker helped cement its international allure (and astronomical prices) with a series of near-reverential reviews (100 points!) during the 1980’s. As you are well aware, all that is not really our bag, so our lone Pomerol producer, Château Sainte-Marie, boasts none of these bells and whistles. Instead they prefer to rely on the same time-tested winemaking that has brought them here today from back in their first vintage on record, in 1874. Their Pomerol is an atypical blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
Lalande-de-Pomerol
Lalande-de-Pomerol is found just north of the more renowned Pomerol appellation, set apart by the Barbanne stream, and not far from Libourne. The Dordogne River plays an important role in the region’s microclimate, bringing much needed nourishment and moisture to the vines. Merlot is the dominant grape, comprising nearly 75% of all plantings, followed by Cabernet Franc, which makes up another 15%. Some producers have small amounts of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon planted as well. With 1,100 total acres planted, Lalande de Pomerol is slightly larger than its neighbor Pomerol. Some of the appellation’s soils are composed of clay and gravel along with traces of iron oxide, very similar to that of Pomerol, while other vineyards have sandy soils that produce lighter wines. The Lalande-de-Pomerol appellation consists of two communes, Lalande-de-Pomerol and Neac, the latter having more slopes and deeper soils with better drainage. Château Les Graves de Lavaud, one of our newest Bordeaux domaines, is located on these slopes, on 4 hectares of clay-limestone soil. Their Lalande de Pomerol, made by the notorious Jean-Luc Thunevin, is 70% Merlot/30% Cabernet Franc and was aged for 12 months in new oak.
Fronsac
Fronsac is considered one of the best Bordeaux satellite appellations. Located west of Libourne and close to St. Emilion and Pomerol (as well as the Dordogne River) Fronsac includes seven communes: Fronsac, La Riviere, Saint Germain de la Riviere, St. Michel de Fronsac, St. Aignan, Saillans and Galgon. Two of those communes, Fronsac and Saint Michel de Fronsac, can use either Fronsac or Canon Fronsac on their labels.
The region’s long history goes back to the ancient Romans. From the mid 18th century to the start of the 19th century, the wines of the top estates in Fronsac were better known and often sold for more money than many wines from Pomerol and St. Emilion. In 1936, the Cotes de Fronsac appellation was born, and in 1976 the name of the appellation was changed from Cotes de Fronsac to Fronsac. The terroir consists of clay and limestone soils that are not that different to those found in St. Emilion. On the plateau, the terroir is mostly limestone. As you travel further down the slopes, you find clay with limestone and at the base the soils are more sand with clay. Some of the best terroir is located on the limestone bluffs overlooking the Dordogne River, with elevations close to 300 feet. Merlot and Cabernet Franc are the two most important grapes planted in the appellation, while small amounts of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon sometimes appear. Fronsac wines are delicious, rich, fine and affordable. They drink well young, and offer some of the best value in Bordeaux.
Our first Fronsac producer, Château de Carles, produces what we feel is one of those—their Fronsac AOP, comprised of mostly Merlot with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, is a classic drinkable Bordeaux. Its appeal is further enhanced by the fact that we can work directly with the château rather than through a negociant. A more recent addition to our Bordeaux book, Château La Vielle Cure has roots in the appellation going back to at least 1780. Now owned by a Bordeaux-loving American couple, the château gives us a traditionally made Merlot-dominated Fronsac wine that pleasurably reflects its limestone, chalk and clay soils.
Entre-Deux-Mers
The wine powers that be gave this entire Bordeaux sub-region (the largest area-wise, though not planted area-wise) the name Entre-Deux-Mers because it sits between the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers. That is somewhat misleading, however, as it is more of a regional than a wine designation. Only a limited number of dry white wines from Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle (and sometimes Sauvignon Gris) may actually carry that AOP name on their labels, whereas all red wines produced within the geographical sub-region must be called Bordeaux or Bordeaux Supérieur. As red wine production became more profitable over the years, the number of white Entre-deux-Mers producers has dwindled, and we feel that our producer, Château Lestrille, has continued to stand out as a faithful benchmark of the appellation. Their version, always with mostly Sauvignon Blanc and a touch of each of the other three grapes, is uncomplicated and tasty, perfect with oysters or simply by the glass.
Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur
As mentioned, the red wines of the Entre-deux-Mers sub-region are entitled to the appellation Bordeaux Contrôlée. If their yield is below a certain point and their alcohol level half a degree higher (12.5%), they are entitled to the appellation Bordeaux Supérieur Contrôlée. Thus Bordeaux “Supes” are generally considered a step up from straight Bordeaux. This is not a lowly appellation is to be scoffed at, and our now famous Bordeaux Supérieur domaine, Château de Cugat, perfectly demonstrates why. In 1926, the property was acquired by the grandmother of the winemaker Benoit Meyer. When Benoit began overseeing the estate in the early nineties, he dreamed of making a wine that would make people think they were drinking something from an area more lofty than the humble Entre-Deux-Mers. After all, part of his vineyard had a mixture of sand and gravel soil, much like parts of nearby Pomerol. And a parcel of the vineyard was between 40 and 50 years old and had wonderful exposition. Well, we think he achieved this dream: today he produces 3 wonderful wines (Classique, Première and Francis Meyer, all of which we have brought in from the beginning), and because of their “mere” Bordeaux-Supérieur designation their prices are hard to believe. In short, a perfect Charles Neal Selections producer!
Also bringing us a couple great Bordeaux Supérieurs is a domaine with 250 years of grape-growing history, Château Tour de Mirambeau. The Despagne family produces a variety of reds and whites, and we almost always carry the Bordeaux Supérieur Cuvée Passion White and Cuvée Passion Red. And finally, Château Lestrille-Capmartin, who makes our great Entre-deux-Mers, also makes a Bordeaux Supérieur to which we always look forward.
Côtes de Bourg
This small appellation within Entre-deux-Mers covers the wines made around the town of Bourg, very close to the city of Bordeaux. The soils here are a mixture of clay, sand and gravel (depending on which part you are in), and not surprisingly Merlot is king of the grapes, though Cabernet Sauvignon can also thrive in the gravelly areas. Because of relatively recent changes in winemaking philosophies and a subsequent shift in style, wines from the Côtes de Bourg have become more popular. Like its northerly neighbor Blaye, the domaines in the AOP are now more than ever capable of putting out soft, fruit-forward wines with amazingly low prices. Château Côtes de Bellevue is doing just that—its Côtes de Bourg is a fruity, delicious blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot and even a touch of Malbec. It is meant to be drunk young with a nice juicy steak.
Graves-Sauternes
Sauternes
Perhaps the most famous sweet wine producing region in the world, Sauternes lies southeast of Bordeaux, next to Graves. This is a heavily wooded area between the Garonne River and the forests of Les Landes, which stretch toward the Atlantic Ocean. Across the center of this small area flows the tiny Ciron River. It is the interaction of the warmer Garonne and cooler Ciron rivers that produce the morning mist that rises from the water and moistens the grapes, before the warm afternoon sun acts as a catalyst for the growth of a fungus on the grapes’ skins. This fungus is exactly what makes wines from Sauternes so justifiably famous—the Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes grown here become severely affected by this “Noble Rot”, scientifically known as Botrytis cinerea. The fungus digests the skin, and the grape rapidly becomes dehydrated. The skin shrivels and wrinkles, and the juice becomes more and more concentrated. This juice goes into what will become some of the finest sweet wines in the world, which is why this Noble Rot is encouraged. Because of the resulting high levels of sugar in the wines, they are also among the world’s most ageable, and if you’ve ever had the pleasure of drinking a 100-year old Sauternes, you already know this. Even many non-experts are familiar with the famous Château d’Yquem and its astronomical prices.
As is always my goal, I sought to find a Sauternes in a different realm, a more affordable, yet still highly typical example. And I am proud to say I believe I succeeded when I (fairly early on) began working with Château Haut-Mayne. Located only a few kilometers from Château d’Yquem, the domaine handcrafts a wonderful Semillon-heavy Sauternes in 375ml bottles, and at a price that allows anyone on any budget to have the pleasure of tasting fine Sauternes.