Savoie / Arbin / Domaine Fabien Trosset
Domaine Fabien Trosset - Arbin
We found out about this domaine through Louis Trosset from whom we could never seem to get enough wine. His cousin Fabien Trosset and partner Chloé took over the estate of Jean-Louis Trosset (first cousin of Louis and his brother Joseph Trosset) in 2011. For years the family sold their grapes to the cooperative in Cruet, but Fabien had higher ambitions and began bottling his own wine in 2012.
Fabien and Chloe slowly began expanding the domaine until it reached its current size of 17 hectares, with 13 of these planted to red and 3 to white. 14 of them lie in Arbin. These vines have an average age of 35 years and, being in the Arbin cru, the domaine’s only red grape is Mondeuse. For whites, they have Altesse and Roussanne planted (known here as Bergeron). The vineyard is worked using lutte raisonée, and soils are aerated but not plowed by machine for fear of damaging erosion. Treatments and sprays are used only when absolutely necessary, and the harvest is done entirely manually.
In 2017 the Trosset’s built a new winery at the bottom of the village, giving them much more room to work as well as a home above for their growing family (2 young daughters at this point). One wall is now lined with stainless steel tanks while a number of demi-muids are stacked in a corner. The domaine produces about 100,000 bottles a year across all their wines. Though the domaine makes some delicious white wines, we have chosen to focus on and only bring in what we feel is the cru’s specialty, red wines from Mondeuse.
Domaine Fabien Trosset Arbin Mondeuse “Les Eboulis”
100% Mondeuse, 50% of which is de-stemmed and aged in tank. Deep ruby color. Blackberry with a bit of red fruit peeking through, along with a touch of pepper. A hint of herbs (mountain herbs, as in Chartreuse) come through on the rich, full-bodied palate. The lightly tannic finish is also long.
Domaine Fabien Trosset Arbin Mondeuse “Avalanche”
From the domaine’s second-oldest Mondeuse vines, the whole clusters are fermented and aged in tank. Raspberry and blueberry aromas along with a floral hint. Fine tannins on the finish make this an awesome partner for grilled beef.
Domaine Fabien Trosset Arbin Mondeuse “1952”
From the domaine’s oldest Mondeuse vines, not that they were planted in 1952 but as an homage to Jean-Louis Trosset who was born in 1952). Even before Fabien’s father died, he always wanted to make a cuvee from the oldest vines on the property, planted at the end of the 1920s. This wine shows even more concentration that the previous two and is an excellent choice for cellaring.
Replete with blueberry, blackberry, violet and pepper, it can be enjoyed now providing that some heavy-duty protein accompanies it at the table.