Wines by Region - Champagne
Les Champagnes de Vignerons
Champagne
The Champagne region is located in northeastern France and covers 33,000 hectares of vines centered around the cities of Reims and Epernay. Champagne’s chalky soil (left behind by ancient oceans) and extremely cool climate due to its northerly position gives the wines great acidity and contribute to its position as the undisputed champion of all sparkling wines.
Thousands of producers have been making champagne in the region for hundreds of years. With such experience, clear-cut distinctions can be made between the top terroirs (grand cru and premier cru), not to mention the knowledge of local enologists, the availability of equipment and a locomotive-driven publicity train that ensures that Champagne is associated with luxury and class. Champagne is the real deal, and the only thing that most producers in the region make. Indeed, sparkling wines from this region are the only ones that can legally be called Champagne. Unfortunately many people mistakenly refer to any wine with bubbles as Champagne, much to the dismay of those in the know and those who are fighting to protect this name.
How Champagne Is Made
The méthode champenoise, invented by a monk named Dom Perignon in Champagne in the 1800’s and now practiced all over the world, is another quality factor that sets this region apart from the rest. Here’s how it works:
Grapes are pressed and wine is made like any other still wine and fermented dry, either in tank or barrel. A blend made by the producer comes from various tanks and/or barrels either comes from a single year or different vintages. At this point the wines are dry and have no bubbles. The wine is then bottled in champagne bottles. A small amount of a mixture called liqueur d’expedition, containing some sugar liquid and yeast, is added in a precise quantity. The bottles are closed with a crown cap (like a beer cap). They are stacked on their sides in a cellar.
Over the next few months the sugar and yeast begin to ferment. This causes carbonic gas to form within the bottle, which creates the wine’s bubbles. The yeast cells and other by-products of fermentation remain in the bottle, leaving sediment on the sides of the bottle.As the ultimate goal is to have a clear wine that sparkles, the bottles are adjusted little by little from their sides until they are standing upside down. The sediment has now slid down and sits within the neck of the bottle atop the crown cap. The necks of the bottles are immersed in ice water where a small amount of wine in contact with the sediment freezes. The bottles are then disgorged: in a specialized machine and within a millisecond, the crown cap is removed, the carbonic gas in the bottle forces the frozen sediment out, and the bottle is topped up with the same quantity of wine that was lost, perhaps a milliliter or so. At the same time, producers normally add a dosage, that is a tiny amount of sugar syrup that helps to balance the sparkling wine’s intense acidity. The amount of sugar added in the dosage will also determine the style of champagne, be it Extra Brut (very dry), Brut (dry) or Extra Dry (which is, in spite of its name, sweet).
Some producers prefer to make some of their champagnes without dosage, or non-dosé. Many of these can have acidity levels that are too severe for the general consumer. However, when the champagne is made from very healthy grapes and allowed to spend a long time maturing on its lees, they can be quite stunning.
The Grapes
Three major grapes are used in Champagne and each plays a fundamental role. Chardonnay, which gives bright acidity and elegance, is the nervous system of Champagne. Pinot Noir, which gives structure and body to the wine, is the muscular system of Champagne. And Pinot Meunier, which gives volume and fruit, is the flesh and bones of Champagne.
The Crus
Unlike Burgundy where vineyards are rated according to their quality, the classification in Champagne is based on villages. Established at the end of the 19th century, the ratings (called the Echelle des Crus, or Ladder of Growths) are expressed from 80% to 100%. After a grape harvest was complete, negociants would meet with a grower’s council and decide on the market price for grapes that year, based on quality and need. Producers in grand cru villages were guaranteed to receive 100% of that price, while those in premier cru villages were guaranteed to receive between 99 and 90% of that price.
In Champagne, all 318 villages are quality rated. Some 257 of these are assessed somewhere between 80 and 89. One rung higher come the 44 premier crus, which range in their classification from 90 to 99. At the top of the pile are the 17 grand cru villages, all rated 100%. These wines are considered to offer the highest qualitative potential, taking into account the quality of the soil, the nature of the subsoils and the microclimate. While there may be fewer grand crus in Champagne than in Burgundy, these 17 grand crus cover a far larger total area of vineyard than Burgundy’s equivalent sites. There are more than 4,360 hectares of grand crus in Champagne—close to 14% of the appellation’s vineyards. The 17 grand cru villages are: Ambonnay, Avize, Ay, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Bouzy, Chouilly, Cramant, Louvois, Mailly-Champagne, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Oiry, Puisieulx, Sillery, Tours-sur-Marne and Verzy.
Champagne Houses versus Champagne Growers
Champagne, like Cognac, is a region that revolves around commercial houses whose names (Moet, Taittinger, Veuve Cliquot, Mumm, etc.) are instantly recognizable around the world. Production levels at these houses are huge, and quality levels are extremely consistent. Most of the large houses own minimal vineyards, and the great majority of their base product is purchased from any number of the 12,000 farmers in the region that grow grapes. Large houses work very hard at establishing the name of their houses and getting their products into customer’s hands around the globe.
The past few decades have seen many independent growers bottling their own products. In contrast to the aforementioned houses (also known as NM or Negociants-Manipulants), the growers (RM or Recoltants-Manipulants) grow their own grapes, make the wine, then bottle and commercialize the champagne directly from their properties. In fact on many urban restaurant wine lists, grower champagnes now outsell the big brands.
We imported our first grower in 1998 (Serge Mathieu in the Cotes de Bars) and our second in 2000 (Ruelle-Pertois). In the two decades since then, we’ve developed what we feel is an awesomely diverse portfolio of growers from all the Champagne sub-regions. Some of them use only one grape variety, some age extensively on the lees, some barrel ferment, some make Champagne without dosage, some work organically, others biodynamically, others sustainably. What ties them together is their unending search for the expression of their terroir, the land they farm and their attempt to deliver those soil and exposure particularities that only this unique region can achieve. Here is a look at some of the villages from which they hail:
Villages in Montagne de Reims
Bouzy (Grand Cru)
Bouzy is perhaps the most revered grand cru village in the Montagne de Reims. Known for its Pinot Noir, Bouzy enjoys a perfect exposition to the southeast. This helps its star red grape ripen fully and develop rich, complex flavors. This ripening capacity is also why several of the producers in the region are becoming known for their Bouzy Rouge, a still red wine made from these Pinot Noir grapes. Perhaps one of our most unique Champagne producers, Champagne Benoit Lahaye, is located here. Lahaye biodynamically farms his 4.8 hectares to craft beautiful Pinot Noir-dominated Champagnes unlike any others on the market.
Ambonnay (Grand Cru)
Ambonnay was erected on the spot of a Gallo-Roman villa and was a thriving town in the Middle Ages. Today it is one of the most sought after sites for Pinot Noir in the Montagne de Reims. Its chalky soils are covered by a thin layer of mixed clay and limestone, and at 130 meters above sea level, the grapes are normally protected from spring frosts. All of this is ideal for the fruity and vinous qualities of Pinot destined for a secondary fermentation in bottle. It is also home to an impressive number of Récoltants-Manipulants, many of who are working organically and/or biodynamically. Our grower Eric Rodez is one of them. Continuing a generations-long tradition in his family, Eric uses his impressive blending skills (honed while he was an oenologist at Krug) to hand-make delicious Champagnes that are also fantastic values.
Villers-Marmery (1er Cru)
This village in the eastern part of the Montagne de Reims has 243 hectares of vines that are exposed east in contrast to most other vineyards in the region. It is also the only village planted with a majority (98%) of Chardonnay in a sea of Pinot Noir. The chalk here is very close to the surface of the soil and has a huge influence on the wines—something that helps make it one of only four villages in the Montagne de Reims that is premier cru for Chardonnay and not premier cru for the region’s predominant Pinot Noir. Champagne Henriet-Bazin is the result of the marriage of two families with deep roots in the Montagne de Reims. The Bazin family’s original grand cru vineyards in Verzenay are still used in the current production of the relocated domaine, meaning a few of the Champagnes we offer are classified as grand cru (and all are great values).
Villages in the Côte des Blancs
Moussy
This charming village that straddles the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs has around 135 hectares of vineyards, of which 61% are actually planted to Pinot Meunier. This is where our very first Côte des Blancs grower, Champagne Ruelle-Pertois, has their one hectare of Pinot Meunier, while a hectare of Pinot Noir is in neighboring Premier Cru village Pierry. The family’s Chardonnay is planted in the grand cru villages of Oiry, Chouilly and Cramant. We are fortunate to carry several great vintage and non-vintage Champagnes from this well-regarded RM, whose grapes come from nearly all grand cru villages.
Cramant (Grand Cru)
Literally meaning chalk mount, Cramant is situated to the south of Épernay on the renowned slopes of the Côtes des Blancs. It has 350 hectares of vines, of which 99.9% are Chardonnay (the .01% is Pinot Meunier). Its terroir of chalky sediment ensures excellent drainage and plays an important role in regulating temperature. Its white color reflects light and heat, contributing (along with its full southern exposure) to the full maturation of the grapes. Champagnes from Cramant tend to be very “creamy” yet mineral-driven with pronounced acidity—you can really taste the chalk in Champagnes from this village.
From Cramant we bring in a few reliably good cuvées from Champagne Voirin-Jumel. This RM represents the marriage of the children of two Champagne grower families, and today it is a true family affair. The current generation's brother-sister duo manages it (Patrick makes the wine while Alice commercializes it), but the entire family seems to work at the domaine in some capacity. The family has vineyards in 11 different villages, and they all produce fresh, lower-acidity champagnes that really highlight their varied terroirs and what values these are.
Avize (Grand Cru)
Squeezed between Cramant to the north and Oger to the south, the vineyards of Avize stretch in a straight line for less than 2 kilometers. The vineyards face east and southeast along the gentle slope of the Côte de Blancs. The subsoil consists entirely of Belemnite chalk (derived from an accumulation of cuttlefish fossils) that is particularly deep on the slopes. The vineyards in Avize form a bowl between Cramant and Oger, and benefit from more sun and more ripeness of grapes throughout the day. However, in contrast to Cramant which is sheltered by a hill, Avize gets the full blast of the prevailing winds that can be cold and wet in bad years. Champagne De Sousa, our Avize producer, farms their 9.2 hectares (many located in grand cru villages) biodynamically, employing incredibly low yields to craft some of the highest quality champagnes in France. It’s no wonder these champagnes feature prominently on many of the finest French restaurant wine lists.
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (Grand Cru)
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is considered by many to be the top grand cru village in the Côte des Blancs. With their 433 hectares planted to nearly all Chardonnay, the vineyards are most famous for Champagne Salon as well as the famed Clos de Mesnil from Krug. This village produces grapes with high acidity, permitting the wines to develop slowly over the years while always retaining their taut structures. Champagne Pierre Moncuit-Delos is run by the latest generation in a line of vignerons that stem back more than a century. The family owns mostly old vines (a rarity in Champagne) surrounding Le Mesnil, and consistently produces some of the best grower champagnes on the US market.
In the same village, Champagne Guy Charlemagne is being run by the 5th generation descendant of father-to-son winegrowers in Le Mesnil since 1892. Philippe Charlemagne only harvests and vinifies grapes grown on his 15 hectares of vines, the majority of which are in the Côte des Blancs, more specifically Oger and Le Mesnil along with some plots in Cuis. 87% of his vines produce Chardonnay, with the remaining 13% planted in Pinot Noir. We have the great pleasure of importing some vintage and non-vintage Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs from this sought-after RM.
Villages in the Côte de Bars (Aube)
Avirey-Lingey
Avirey-Lingey is one of the neighboring villages of Les Riceys, located in the southern part of the Aube department. Being next to Burgundy, the Aube’s terroir has more limestone than chalk. The vineyards in Avirey-Lingey are spread over several parts of the commune, with the largest concentration on a low hill in the southern part of the commune. The vineyards are made up of gentle slopes, and are dominated by Pinot Noir. Seven generations at Champagne Serge Mathieu gradually built up vineyards that now cover 11 hectares of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and the RM is widely considered to be one of the best in the Aube. The current generation’s eco-pragmatic approach to vineyard management helps them produce beautiful, elegant Pinot-dominated Champagnes including a Rosé and various vintages we’ve carried over the years.
The Champagne region is located in northeastern France and covers 33,000 hectares of vines centered around the cities of Reims and Epernay. Champagne’s chalky soil (left behind by ancient oceans) and extremely cool climate due to its northerly position gives the wines great acidity and contribute to its position as the undisputed champion of all sparkling wines.
Thousands of producers have been making champagne in the region for hundreds of years. With such experience, clear-cut distinctions can be made between the top terroirs (grand cru and premier cru), not to mention the knowledge of local enologists, the availability of equipment and a locomotive-driven publicity train that ensures that Champagne is associated with luxury and class. Champagne is the real deal, and the only thing that most producers in the region make. Indeed, sparkling wines from this region are the only ones that can legally be called Champagne. Unfortunately many people mistakenly refer to any wine with bubbles as Champagne, much to the dismay of those in the know and those who are fighting to protect this name.
How Champagne Is Made
The méthode champenoise, invented by a monk named Dom Perignon in Champagne in the 1800’s and now practiced all over the world, is another quality factor that sets this region apart from the rest. Here’s how it works:
Grapes are pressed and wine is made like any other still wine and fermented dry, either in tank or barrel. A blend made by the producer comes from various tanks and/or barrels either comes from a single year or different vintages. At this point the wines are dry and have no bubbles. The wine is then bottled in champagne bottles. A small amount of a mixture called liqueur d’expedition, containing some sugar liquid and yeast, is added in a precise quantity. The bottles are closed with a crown cap (like a beer cap). They are stacked on their sides in a cellar.
Over the next few months the sugar and yeast begin to ferment. This causes carbonic gas to form within the bottle, which creates the wine’s bubbles. The yeast cells and other by-products of fermentation remain in the bottle, leaving sediment on the sides of the bottle.As the ultimate goal is to have a clear wine that sparkles, the bottles are adjusted little by little from their sides until they are standing upside down. The sediment has now slid down and sits within the neck of the bottle atop the crown cap. The necks of the bottles are immersed in ice water where a small amount of wine in contact with the sediment freezes. The bottles are then disgorged: in a specialized machine and within a millisecond, the crown cap is removed, the carbonic gas in the bottle forces the frozen sediment out, and the bottle is topped up with the same quantity of wine that was lost, perhaps a milliliter or so. At the same time, producers normally add a dosage, that is a tiny amount of sugar syrup that helps to balance the sparkling wine’s intense acidity. The amount of sugar added in the dosage will also determine the style of champagne, be it Extra Brut (very dry), Brut (dry) or Extra Dry (which is, in spite of its name, sweet).
Some producers prefer to make some of their champagnes without dosage, or non-dosé. Many of these can have acidity levels that are too severe for the general consumer. However, when the champagne is made from very healthy grapes and allowed to spend a long time maturing on its lees, they can be quite stunning.
The Grapes
Three major grapes are used in Champagne and each plays a fundamental role. Chardonnay, which gives bright acidity and elegance, is the nervous system of Champagne. Pinot Noir, which gives structure and body to the wine, is the muscular system of Champagne. And Pinot Meunier, which gives volume and fruit, is the flesh and bones of Champagne.
The Crus
Unlike Burgundy where vineyards are rated according to their quality, the classification in Champagne is based on villages. Established at the end of the 19th century, the ratings (called the Echelle des Crus, or Ladder of Growths) are expressed from 80% to 100%. After a grape harvest was complete, negociants would meet with a grower’s council and decide on the market price for grapes that year, based on quality and need. Producers in grand cru villages were guaranteed to receive 100% of that price, while those in premier cru villages were guaranteed to receive between 99 and 90% of that price.
In Champagne, all 318 villages are quality rated. Some 257 of these are assessed somewhere between 80 and 89. One rung higher come the 44 premier crus, which range in their classification from 90 to 99. At the top of the pile are the 17 grand cru villages, all rated 100%. These wines are considered to offer the highest qualitative potential, taking into account the quality of the soil, the nature of the subsoils and the microclimate. While there may be fewer grand crus in Champagne than in Burgundy, these 17 grand crus cover a far larger total area of vineyard than Burgundy’s equivalent sites. There are more than 4,360 hectares of grand crus in Champagne—close to 14% of the appellation’s vineyards. The 17 grand cru villages are: Ambonnay, Avize, Ay, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Bouzy, Chouilly, Cramant, Louvois, Mailly-Champagne, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Oiry, Puisieulx, Sillery, Tours-sur-Marne and Verzy.
Champagne Houses versus Champagne Growers
Champagne, like Cognac, is a region that revolves around commercial houses whose names (Moet, Taittinger, Veuve Cliquot, Mumm, etc.) are instantly recognizable around the world. Production levels at these houses are huge, and quality levels are extremely consistent. Most of the large houses own minimal vineyards, and the great majority of their base product is purchased from any number of the 12,000 farmers in the region that grow grapes. Large houses work very hard at establishing the name of their houses and getting their products into customer’s hands around the globe.
The past few decades have seen many independent growers bottling their own products. In contrast to the aforementioned houses (also known as NM or Negociants-Manipulants), the growers (RM or Recoltants-Manipulants) grow their own grapes, make the wine, then bottle and commercialize the champagne directly from their properties. In fact on many urban restaurant wine lists, grower champagnes now outsell the big brands.
We imported our first grower in 1998 (Serge Mathieu in the Cotes de Bars) and our second in 2000 (Ruelle-Pertois). In the two decades since then, we’ve developed what we feel is an awesomely diverse portfolio of growers from all the Champagne sub-regions. Some of them use only one grape variety, some age extensively on the lees, some barrel ferment, some make Champagne without dosage, some work organically, others biodynamically, others sustainably. What ties them together is their unending search for the expression of their terroir, the land they farm and their attempt to deliver those soil and exposure particularities that only this unique region can achieve. Here is a look at some of the villages from which they hail:
Villages in Montagne de Reims
Bouzy (Grand Cru)
Bouzy is perhaps the most revered grand cru village in the Montagne de Reims. Known for its Pinot Noir, Bouzy enjoys a perfect exposition to the southeast. This helps its star red grape ripen fully and develop rich, complex flavors. This ripening capacity is also why several of the producers in the region are becoming known for their Bouzy Rouge, a still red wine made from these Pinot Noir grapes. Perhaps one of our most unique Champagne producers, Champagne Benoit Lahaye, is located here. Lahaye biodynamically farms his 4.8 hectares to craft beautiful Pinot Noir-dominated Champagnes unlike any others on the market.
Ambonnay (Grand Cru)
Ambonnay was erected on the spot of a Gallo-Roman villa and was a thriving town in the Middle Ages. Today it is one of the most sought after sites for Pinot Noir in the Montagne de Reims. Its chalky soils are covered by a thin layer of mixed clay and limestone, and at 130 meters above sea level, the grapes are normally protected from spring frosts. All of this is ideal for the fruity and vinous qualities of Pinot destined for a secondary fermentation in bottle. It is also home to an impressive number of Récoltants-Manipulants, many of who are working organically and/or biodynamically. Our grower Eric Rodez is one of them. Continuing a generations-long tradition in his family, Eric uses his impressive blending skills (honed while he was an oenologist at Krug) to hand-make delicious Champagnes that are also fantastic values.
Villers-Marmery (1er Cru)
This village in the eastern part of the Montagne de Reims has 243 hectares of vines that are exposed east in contrast to most other vineyards in the region. It is also the only village planted with a majority (98%) of Chardonnay in a sea of Pinot Noir. The chalk here is very close to the surface of the soil and has a huge influence on the wines—something that helps make it one of only four villages in the Montagne de Reims that is premier cru for Chardonnay and not premier cru for the region’s predominant Pinot Noir. Champagne Henriet-Bazin is the result of the marriage of two families with deep roots in the Montagne de Reims. The Bazin family’s original grand cru vineyards in Verzenay are still used in the current production of the relocated domaine, meaning a few of the Champagnes we offer are classified as grand cru (and all are great values).
Villages in the Côte des Blancs
Moussy
This charming village that straddles the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs has around 135 hectares of vineyards, of which 61% are actually planted to Pinot Meunier. This is where our very first Côte des Blancs grower, Champagne Ruelle-Pertois, has their one hectare of Pinot Meunier, while a hectare of Pinot Noir is in neighboring Premier Cru village Pierry. The family’s Chardonnay is planted in the grand cru villages of Oiry, Chouilly and Cramant. We are fortunate to carry several great vintage and non-vintage Champagnes from this well-regarded RM, whose grapes come from nearly all grand cru villages.
Cramant (Grand Cru)
Literally meaning chalk mount, Cramant is situated to the south of Épernay on the renowned slopes of the Côtes des Blancs. It has 350 hectares of vines, of which 99.9% are Chardonnay (the .01% is Pinot Meunier). Its terroir of chalky sediment ensures excellent drainage and plays an important role in regulating temperature. Its white color reflects light and heat, contributing (along with its full southern exposure) to the full maturation of the grapes. Champagnes from Cramant tend to be very “creamy” yet mineral-driven with pronounced acidity—you can really taste the chalk in Champagnes from this village.
From Cramant we bring in a few reliably good cuvées from Champagne Voirin-Jumel. This RM represents the marriage of the children of two Champagne grower families, and today it is a true family affair. The current generation's brother-sister duo manages it (Patrick makes the wine while Alice commercializes it), but the entire family seems to work at the domaine in some capacity. The family has vineyards in 11 different villages, and they all produce fresh, lower-acidity champagnes that really highlight their varied terroirs and what values these are.
Avize (Grand Cru)
Squeezed between Cramant to the north and Oger to the south, the vineyards of Avize stretch in a straight line for less than 2 kilometers. The vineyards face east and southeast along the gentle slope of the Côte de Blancs. The subsoil consists entirely of Belemnite chalk (derived from an accumulation of cuttlefish fossils) that is particularly deep on the slopes. The vineyards in Avize form a bowl between Cramant and Oger, and benefit from more sun and more ripeness of grapes throughout the day. However, in contrast to Cramant which is sheltered by a hill, Avize gets the full blast of the prevailing winds that can be cold and wet in bad years. Champagne De Sousa, our Avize producer, farms their 9.2 hectares (many located in grand cru villages) biodynamically, employing incredibly low yields to craft some of the highest quality champagnes in France. It’s no wonder these champagnes feature prominently on many of the finest French restaurant wine lists.
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger (Grand Cru)
Le Mesnil-sur-Oger is considered by many to be the top grand cru village in the Côte des Blancs. With their 433 hectares planted to nearly all Chardonnay, the vineyards are most famous for Champagne Salon as well as the famed Clos de Mesnil from Krug. This village produces grapes with high acidity, permitting the wines to develop slowly over the years while always retaining their taut structures. Champagne Pierre Moncuit-Delos is run by the latest generation in a line of vignerons that stem back more than a century. The family owns mostly old vines (a rarity in Champagne) surrounding Le Mesnil, and consistently produces some of the best grower champagnes on the US market.
In the same village, Champagne Guy Charlemagne is being run by the 5th generation descendant of father-to-son winegrowers in Le Mesnil since 1892. Philippe Charlemagne only harvests and vinifies grapes grown on his 15 hectares of vines, the majority of which are in the Côte des Blancs, more specifically Oger and Le Mesnil along with some plots in Cuis. 87% of his vines produce Chardonnay, with the remaining 13% planted in Pinot Noir. We have the great pleasure of importing some vintage and non-vintage Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs from this sought-after RM.
Villages in the Côte de Bars (Aube)
Avirey-Lingey
Avirey-Lingey is one of the neighboring villages of Les Riceys, located in the southern part of the Aube department. Being next to Burgundy, the Aube’s terroir has more limestone than chalk. The vineyards in Avirey-Lingey are spread over several parts of the commune, with the largest concentration on a low hill in the southern part of the commune. The vineyards are made up of gentle slopes, and are dominated by Pinot Noir. Seven generations at Champagne Serge Mathieu gradually built up vineyards that now cover 11 hectares of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and the RM is widely considered to be one of the best in the Aube. The current generation’s eco-pragmatic approach to vineyard management helps them produce beautiful, elegant Pinot-dominated Champagnes including a Rosé and various vintages we’ve carried over the years.
Vineyard in Le Mesnil