Wines by Region / Burgundy / Côtes de Beaune / Maranges / Domaine Maurice Charleux et Fils
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Domaine Maurice charleux et fils
Charles Neal Selections © 2018
|Charles Neal Selections||
Domaine Maurice charleux et fils
Dezize-lès-Maranges, Côte d’Or
Domaine Maurice Charleux is located in Dezize-les-Maranges, about 4 kilometers southwest of Santenay. It was founded in 1894 by Ferdinand Charleux, who owned just a little over half a hectare of vines. By the time he died in 1924, he had expanded the property to 2 hectares.
A few years later, Ferdinand's son Joseph began a 30-year span of growing the size of the property to 8 hectares. Maurice took over the domaine upon his father's retirement in 1970 and began branding the wines under his name. Nearly 20 years later, his son Vincent began working with his father and, little by little, acquired more plots of vines. Today, the domaine covers just under 10 hectares, of which 85% is Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay. The annual production is approximately 40,000 bottles—a number that is gradually rising. The family still sells a small percentage of their harvest to local négociants.
The soils on their parcels are composed of clay and limestone, with the percentages of each varying between the vineyards. The Bourgogne, Maranges VV, and Maranges Premier Cru Les Clos Roussots have a high percentage of clay, while La Fussière, Le Clos des Rois and Santenay have more limestone.
Yields for wines are normally below what is authorized within the appellations—for example, 55 hl/ha is authorized for Santenay Blanc, but Charleux averages 52 hl/ha. 50 hl/ha is authorized for Maranges and Santenay, but they average about 44 hl/ha. 60 hl/ha are permitted for Bourgogne Rouge, yet they are normally in the 50 hl/ha range. That being said, yields between 2011 and 2013 were way down so that over the course of 3 vintages, they had the equivalent of only two harvests!
Certain parcels are worked with a plow while others, especially when there is danger of erosion, are covered with grass. The Charleux family farms in lutte raisonée, using copper and sulfur during most of the year while occasionally they might feel it necessary for the health of their plants to incorporate a synthetic treatment. In other words, the family adapts their work to what the climatic conditions demand. They did a green harvest in 2009 but haven't done one since. Harvest is done by hand with the sorting done right in the vineyard.
The white wines are pressed in a balloon press and allowed 24 hours of skin contact. The wine is then fermented in barrels, 20% new. For the reds, only indigenous yeasts are used. The reds are de-stemmed, then see a 3- to 5-day cold soak, and a 15- to 21-day fermentation period in cement tanks or foudres, with punchdowns, pump-overs and delestage. The premier cru wines go into oak casks, approximately 20% new. The village wines see about 15% new oak, while the Bourgogne Rouge does not see any new oak at all. The family likes keeping oak to a minimum, preferring to let the terroir of each cru surface, rather than be hidden by an "international" style that masks the beauty of each climat. Bottling with a light filtration takes place approximately a year after going into barrel.
Domaine Maurice Charleux et Fils Maranges 1er Cru “La Fussière” Blanc
From the domaine’s 1.82-hectare holding in La Fussière, the largest climat of Maranges, covering some 35 hectares. It has a south-facing exposure and lies in the middle of the slope at an altitude of 290 to 400 meters. The soil is often white limestone over blue-colored marl, replete with fossils. The Jurassic bedrock lies beneath the cru.
Domaine Maurice Charleux et Fils Bourgogne Pinot Noir
From the domaine’s 0.50-hectare holding of 50-year old vines just outside the Maranges appellation, southwest of the winery. It is aged in tank and older barrels. Medium-bodied and supple, this wine shows red fruit (strawberry, cherry and cassis) and soft, well-integrated tannin.
Domaine Maurice Charleux et Fils Maranges Vieilles Vignes
From 2.20 hectares of truly old vines planted in 1933 and 1937, which gives this cuvée admirable concentration and length. Aging takes place in 3rd and 4th use oak casks. Its color is a deep ruby-red and it has powerful aromas of red berries. As one would expect from a wine from such old vines, it has impressive power and concentration, and fine tannins.
Domaine Maurice Charleux et Fils Maranges 1er Cru “La Fussière” Rouge
This is the largest climat of Maranges, covering some 35 hectares. It has a south-facing exposure and lies in the middle of the slope at an altitude of 290 to 400 meters. The soil is often white limestone over blue-colored marl, replete with fossils. The Jurassic bedrock lies beneath the cru. This wine comes from 35- to 50-year old vines (of which Charleux owns 1.82 hectares), which helps amplify the wines’ concentration and finesse. It has power as well as elegance, making it a wonderful accompaniment to rabbit, filet mignon and pork tenderloin.
Domaine Maurice Charleux et Fils Maranges 1er Cru “Le Clos des Rois”
A 0.30-hectare parcel in this cru, which sits at the bottom of the hill and includes just over 7 hectares of vines that face south and southwest. The altitude is between 260 and 290 meters. The soil is quite complex but, in general, contains more limestone than La Fussière. Wines from this climat have both structure and complexity, and usually show red fruit aromas along with floral and spicy notes, and this wine is no exception—it has enticing aromas of peony and violet, red fruits and spices, and on the palate it is round and complex. When young, it is suitable with red meats in sauce or a rib of Charolais beef. Let it age, and it becomes perfect with a hare stew, a partridge or any other game.
Domaine Maurice Charleux et Fils Maranges 1er Cru “Les Clos Roussots”
A 2.14-hectare parcel in this climat, which contains just under 26 hectares of vines planted at 260 to 315 meters and facing south and southeast. These vineyards are less pitched than La Fussière. Soils are blue colored clay/marl mixed with limestone debris. Typical for the climat, this wine is fruit-forward and full of aromas and flavors of small red fruits, particularly raspberry, and it also has attractive lashings of vanilla and spices.
Domaine Maurice Charleux et Fils Santeney 1er Cru “Clos Rousseau”
This 0.51-hectare vineyard is a direct continuation of Maranges' Clos Roussots, divided only by the Maranges premier cru Clos de la Boutières. Vines average 30 years of age, and the oak treatment is in 2nd and 3rd use barrels (with about 15% new oak employed). The tannin is a bit more velvety than that of the Maranges, and the fruit includes cherry and cassis. With aging, some interesting notes of undergrowth add complexity. This wine is an excellent accompaniment to coq au vin or beef tenderloin.